Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 26 of 26

Thread: Stainless Steel Bolt replacements for Defender 110 ?!?!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Brisbane, Inner East.
    Posts
    11,178
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    John,

    I remember a lot of problems back in the UK in my motorbike days. Stainless bolts holding thin aluminium mudguards in combination with the rock salt they used on the roads in winter and the aluminium corroded badly. Change back to galvanised or cad plated bolts and problem went away. Less of an issue here unless you are beach driving.

    Galvanic Series Relationships are shown here (tested in seawater)
    Galvanic series


    Colin
    I sell a lot of tooling to motor cycle restorers. Particularly taps and dies in BSC, CEI Coarse, and UN 24 pitch series. Many restorers like to have stainless fasteners as they dont rust when the machine is stored in the shed for months or years without use. I always stress to a new customer not to replace heat treated high tensile fasteners with stainless. I also give them a handout on hand tapping stainless. If you are ever going to break a tap, you will do so in stainless if not very careful. Thus you may have a broken tap in the only Bradford Bunfight crankshaft in the world. This can seriously ruin your day.

    There is a guy in Brisbane who caters to the hobby by machining special parts and fasteners. He tells his clients to bring their own taps and dies if they want him to make stainless fasteners. He doesn't want his own flogged out or broken. Stainless is hard on thread cutting tools.

    "Stainless Steel" is actually a cutlery steel patented in 1916 and the term has come into common use for all of this type of alloy steel. The correct and long winded term is Chromium Nickel Corrosion Resistant Alloy Steel.

    There are a multitude of grades. All contain chromium, some contain nickel; some are magnetic, some are not; some are martensitic, some are austenitic; some can be heat treated, most can not.
    URSUSMAJOR

  2. #22
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Posts
    16,055
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The more I read threads like these the less certain I am of anything !

    Just looking for the best option to replace the screws fro doors, bonnet and snorkel.

    Stainless ?

    No doubt thyere are serveral different lengths of bolt involved as it wouldn;t be very British to make it easy. Anyone know the details of what bolts are needed (Size, pitch, length) ?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  3. #23
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Posts
    16,055
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    The more I read threads like these the less certain I am of anything !

    Just looking for the best option to replace the screws fro doors, bonnet and snorkel.

    Stainless ?

    No doubt thyere are serveral different lengths of bolt involved as it wouldn;t be very British to make it easy. Anyone know the details of what bolts are needed (Size, pitch, length) ?
    bump !!!
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Logan,Queensland
    Posts
    921
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I've got a bonnet kit and front door kit from paddocks sitting here, yet to be installed. your welcome to have a look and size them up.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Margaret River
    Posts
    800
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I bought Stainless Torx bolt kits on ebay from wrightsupplier30yr.

    They were OK for front doors on the 130 but the bolts are too short for the rear side door hinges. Seller could not provide bolts the correct length (or longer).

    Ended up not using them for this reason and concerns about strength in a crash

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Singapore via Melbourne
    Posts
    1,938
    Total Downloaded
    0
    IMHO, Cad plated screws and bolts are best -the closest on the galvanic corrosion table to neutral for both aluminium and mild steel that many of the screws end up joining together... BUT cad plated bolts and screws are hard to come by as cadmium is poisonous and only really used in aluminium airframes... which (again IMHO), are probably closer to a series/110/defender style landrover in build materials and form than any other vehicle going about ;-)

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!