Thread: ARB air locker into sals - do it yourself?

I'm still looking around trying to get more prices for an install and I'm getting responses from mechanics ranging from emphatic "no's" to the "sound" advice of "don't install a second hand locker" so, as I'm supposed to be (haven't heard from him for a while) getting this from justinc, who's a vendor on this site and says this locker is in excellent condition, I may have to try installing myself. ?????

Originally Posted by Didge

I'm still looking around trying to get more prices for an install and I'm getting responses from mechanics ranging from emphatic "no's" to the "sound" advice of "don't install a second hand locker" so, as I'm supposed to be (haven't heard from him for a while) getting this from justinc, who's a vendor on this site and says this locker is in excellent condition, I may have to try installing myself. ?????

Yo Didge, if you end up doing it yourself and you want a diff spreader let me know. I made one for the job, once I'm done installing my truetrac you can have it for the cost of post. Despite what a lot of people here are saying you do need one, if your carrier 'just drops out' and you can put it back in with a ' tap of a rubber hammer' the carrier bearing preload won't be correct.

Hi goingbush,

I didn't use a diff spreader with mine, just put the complete diff after making the shim calculations and build up in the freezer for a couple of hours. Worked a treat but I needed gloves on the refit as it was pig to handle. This was a tip I was given by the boys in the workshop at work. And they work on 110's everyday.
I'm very happy and confident it's right.

Nino

Originally Posted by landy

Hi goingbush,

I didn't use a diff spreader with mine, just put the complete diff after making the shim calculations and build up in the freezer for a couple of hours. Worked a treat but I needed gloves on the refit as it was pig to handle. This was a tip I was given by the boys in the workshop at work. And they work on 110's everyday.
I'm very happy and confident it's right.

Nino

Ditto - I used a couple of crowbars to remove the centre and a copper or leather hammer to refit (can't remember which one now). I am 100% sure the preload is correct.

Thankyou very much for that offer goingbush; very much appreciated. That's what I like about this forum and the community attitude it fosters. I'm about to collect 140 LR mags from Frenchie who is in Canberra (all for free because he's finished with them) and when I finish with them it'll be the same.
Landy, that's also a good tip; amazing what tricks and tips are out there in the industry, I've learnt so much from coming to this site nearly every night (which reminds me I must renew my subscription).
Now, this is going to sound really foolish considering I'm thinking about doing the install myself (subject to prices) what just exactly what is preload? I have seen it on a video so I'm guessing it's the amount of tightening of some certain nut or bearing.
cheers Gerald

No worries,

Simplistically 'Preload' means the bearings are squashed in tight , so if your diff falls out or goes in easy there is not enough preload.
The preload is adjusted by inserting shims in-between the Carrier & the bearing cones, or between the bearing cups and housing.

the other adjustment is you need is backlash, which means you can turn the crown wheel back & forward a little (.15 to .25mm) before its teeth mesh with the pinion teeth.

Either do some measurements with feeler gauge & calculator & get it right first time or juggle the preload shims side to side to get the backlash right.

Its much easier with a rover diff as there are adjustment rings on each side of the carrier bearings.

The freezer trick will work, but don't put your tounge on it.

Probably why we can get away with imperfect diff setup in a Salisbury is its very forgiving because of its strength. One thing thats not in the manual Most important thing is use oxide paste or bearing blue to check your gear mesh pattern.

You will get some tips here. Dana 60 questions
For the purposes of this argument the Dana60 is the same as a 8HA Salisbury

And if your diff is in good nick, as it should be in a Landy you can save yourself some trouble, Before you pull it apart check the backlash & tooth contact pattern, if its good you won't need to remove the pinion, if you do just leave the pinion shims as you found them.

also heres a neat video, (noted, they don't use a spreader) dosent show everything you need but might pick up a tip . Ignore removing the Caliper bit we don't need to do that.

..Don

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWbQpsLMDlQ]Jeep Drivetrain Winner: Installing Detroit Truetrac Differentials and Locker - YouTube[/ame]

You're a champion Don, thanks for the advice. As I said earlier I am keen to have a go myself to learn but also have to consider the wisdom in the advice of others who've said "just pay to get it done" which leaves me in a quandry (if that's how you spell it). Still waiting to get the locker
cheers Gerald

Originally Posted by Didge

You're a champion Don, thanks for the advice. As I said earlier I am keen to have a go myself to learn but also have to consider the wisdom in the advice of others who've said "just pay to get it done" which leaves me in a quandry (if that's how you spell it). Still waiting to get the locker
cheers Gerald

Hey Gerald.

sorry i am still on holidays, will be back at work monday, meantime will get $ for you asap on freight. e-go couriers are way cheaper than anyone else but not extremely quick pity you aren't close, i could install too. i am avail for over phone advice if you are installing yourself though.

jc