Thread: To much lift! (Is there any such thing?)

Originally Posted by Pat The Rat

Thanks again Wayne, I appreciate you taking the time to crawl under yours to check. I think I might not be following procedure here, and have measured from centre of hub to the bottom of the standard plastic flare (touching the tape on both). Apologies if this is not standard practice and has caused confusion.
Going off your bump stop clearances, I do seem a bit tall....... And you would be bang on for a 3" lift as you said.
The guy who got back to me so quickly at Dobinsons has been out of the office since Wednesday apparently, and the supplier will deal with me (by confirming if my clearances are normal) when they are good and ready it seems.
I will be sure to post on here the end result of all this for future reference.

Pat
The only reason to use the measurements to the bottom of the metal wheel arch and not the plastic flare,is to take out as much variance as possible caused by the plastic flares drooping over the years due to being knocked and leaned on etc.I can't give you measurements to the lip of the plastic flare,as I have different flares,mounted in different positions.
If your bumpstop clearances are correct,then in my opinion,it is way too high and will make the vehicle very unstable,particularly on sideslopes.
With the height I run,I have no problem clearing my 35's and am able to fully cycle my suspension,and the vehicle is very stable offroad

Originally Posted by goingbush

I'm one of those that don't believe you need to lift a Defender.


Having said that I would not say No to the portal 130 below, exept I'd need a ladder to get in.



Each to their own
and this bloke on the link below seems to have all the answers. Worth a look

Defender suspension lift/Upgrades - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

Seen the blue 90 at Billing show a couple of years ago. Just another badly liftet dead trap....IMO

I have just checked my bump stop clearance. I have 150mm in the front, measured from the rear of the bump stop. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336195352.435568.jpg ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336195388.358805.jpg.

I have included a side shot for you to compare heights. My tyre is a 285/75/16 or 33".

Originally Posted by Pat The Rat

Thanks for that link. Every time I see a pic of Equipe 4x4 gear I think its looks dead flash.
Interesting they mention dislocation cones - I have been quoted these as part of my $2.5K 'fit it pack' to get my car pointing up the road correctly again. I have an open measurement of 710mm for +5" Terrafirma shocks (hope i'm not incriminating my supplier before there is a chance to sort this out). Now, I can jack my 110 up until the shock mounts are this far apart, and they aren’t coming loose. Just adds to the frustration is all... Getting this stuff offered to me that I am supposed to blindly bolt in.... Mind you, given my track record with these coils

I have found photo's of a tape against the coils, my front free length is 500mm and the rears are 550mm. What are yours.

Are you saying that when you jack the vehicle up on one side inducing articulation, the shock reaches full travel and the coil is still seated.

I have found that with such a tall coil trying to get a coil to unseat in the drive way is very hard. You need a real world test as this pushes the oposite side up further then just jacking one side.

I have terrafirma +5 shocks front and rear with +2 towers on the front and the rear mounts to suit the +5 shocks. I believe you don't need the +2 front towers and will change them out for standard height one day.

I have slotted swivels for the castor. I would never use castor correction bushes. I do have 6 degree arms in the shed to fit later on, I want them as they are cranked at the chassis bush, I don't really need them but it will give me a little more flex over what I have now. If you go slotted swivels you can usually get away with wide angle uni's instead of a double cardon joint.

Originally Posted by lambrover

I have found photo's of a tape against the coils, my front free length is 500mm and the rears are 550mm. What are yours.

Are you saying that when you jack the vehicle up on one side inducing articulation, the shock reaches full travel and the coil is still seated.

I have found that with such a tall coil trying to get a coil to unseat in the drive way is very hard. You need a real world test as this pushes the oposite side up further then just jacking one side.

I have terrafirma +5 shocks front and rear with +2 towers on the front and the rear mounts to suit the +5 shocks. I believe you don't need the +2 front towers and will change them out for standard height one day.

I have slotted swivels for the castor. I would never use castor correction bushes. I do have 6 degree arms in the shed to fit later on, I want them as they are cranked at the chassis bush, I don't really need them but it will give me a little more flex over what I have now. If you go slotted swivels you can usually get away with wide angle uni's instead of a double cardon joint.

Mark
The only problem with going back to standard height front towers and running the "+5" shocks,is that you run the risk of the shocks topping out,unless you run extended bump stops.

Originally Posted by LowRanger

Mark
The only problem with going back to standard height front towers and running the "+5" shocks,is that you run the risk of the shocks topping out,unless you run extended bump stops.

yeah correct. I reckon it would be better because with taller coils your compressed length is obviously taller than standard coils so you won't hit the bump stops as you will bind before this. So making use of the wasted up travel, converting it into down travel makes sence.

I thought you ran standard height front towers/turrets ?

Originally Posted by lambrover

yeah correct. I reckon it would be better because with taller coils your compressed length is obviously taller than standard coils so you won't hit the bump stops as you will bind before this. So making use of the wasted up travel, converting it into down travel makes sence.

I thought you ran standard height front towers/turrets ?

Coil bind is one of the reasons I that I changed my coils.You want to be able to allow the suspension to maximise up travel,as down travel is limited by the suspension bushes.I have raised front towers,which allow my 35's to fully tuck into the guard cavity,maximising up travel without topping out the shocks.The secret is finding a shock,with a short enough closed length,and a long enough extended length,maximising the full movement available with the standard Land Rover front link setup.

I would be surprised if at full compression you were on the bump stops.

I know mine do not, ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336205118.494640.jpg