Thread: To much lift! (Is there any such thing?)

Originally Posted by uninformed

im wondering if your front coils had been installed upside down? reason I say is because my 98 110 cam stock with varibale rate coils and the top 3 coils were bound up 4 years in...

with that much lift rotating the swivels is a must to return the castor....but your axle roll axis is going to be high oversteer front and rear meaning that bump steer will be high as will squirliness on uneven cambered roads.

I had wondered this myself, I put the front coils in with the closer coils at the bottom (as this is where the close winds were on the old coils - and they had about 4 touching). But I am not sure it would reduce the height by much flipping them over?

Good info regarding roll axis. A question that came to me was that if I was to go with slotted swivels (I am walking away from this lift now - so its hypothetical), would I need to put a wedge or similar under the bottom mounting plate? As having an uneven base at normal ride height can’t be good for the coils or accuracy of height etc etc ?

Originally Posted by lambrover

I have slotted swivels for the castor. I would never use castor correction bushes. I do have 6 degree arms in the shed to fit later on, I want them as they are cranked at the chassis bush, I don't really need them but it will give me a little more flex over what I have now.

So you are usnig stock raduis arms and no castor bushes at the moment? What about rear arms? - interesting to hear that.......

Pic attached (he says with crossed fingers)
New Coils.jpg

Originally Posted by Pat The Rat

So you are usnig stock raduis arms and no castor bushes at the moment? What about rear arms? - interesting to hear that.......

Yeah mate I am using stock radius arms and standard bushes. I have cranked rear arms. Lowranger has really good rear arms, I think they are Gwyn Lewis ((spelling is most likely wrong).

With regards to the angle of the bottom spring perch, don't touch them. As the axle travels up the axle rolls back and the perch angle flattens out, our spring won't fall out, mine are like now and so was my last car.

My coils were made for my old 110 county with the Isuzu engine and dual wheel carrier on the rear, long range tank and draw system, bullbar and winch. When you ordered your coils what did you say you had fitted, it sounds like you have some for a loaded vehicle so the spring rate is to high for your empty vehicle.

I did say it was fitted with drawers, and a LR factory bullbar (ARB style). I asked if they needed to know weights or for me to run the car over a weighbridge etc. I am sure I didn't give a weight, just a quick outline of the stuff bolted to it. I was amazed they could order springs based on this (they never saw the car), but I figured my 110 is hardly exceptional in any way - and they must know what they are doing certainly no Isuzu under the bonnet....

By the way: my Deefer is standard, with some big draws (full length and up to the tub depth), bullbar, tune side steps, rear bar (made from factory front bumper), rear wheel carrier and that's about it. Got diff locks and a few bits and bobs but nothing extra weight wise..

Pat
Not knowing exactly what you are trying to achieve with your setup,makes it a bit difficult to make too many recommendations.But if you are only going to run up to 33" tyres,then my serious recommendation is that you swap the springs you have for something that gives up to 2" lift. Using the springs you have is going to require a lot more mods and money to overcome.And it sounds like you are dealing with the same company I did,when I bought my original replacement springs,they don't like to give away any information,hence part of the reason I will never deal with them again.I went and had the corners of my vehicle weighed when in normal loaded mode,and bought the appropriate springs to match the weight



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