Thread: Clutch Master Cylinder - long term solution?

Originally Posted by incisor

big w carry dot 3 brake fluid, $7 a bottle...

Thanks guys. I'll try going back to DOT 3 next time. Any other ideas on what may be going wrong ?

Where are you going to put your clutch switch?

Originally Posted by goingbush

They are Steel,

The mounting bolt holes are offset so you need to remove the pedal box & drill new holes, but this will be a one off job, Should last for ever as long as you flush the fluid every 100,000 klm or so. (use Dot 3 Fluid)

Originally Posted by djam1

Where are you going to put your clutch switch?

I thought most Td5 owners disconnected it as it improves the gear changes (so I've been told by those who have done it).

Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

Adam,
If your buying genuine or OE you shouldn't have a problem.

Is the clutch adjusted correctly?
Are you using the correct fluid?
Do you put new fluid in with each unit or just top up? It should be new to make sure it's clean.

Are you sure you are receiving what you've ordered, ie OE?

R
Jon

Sent using Forum Runner

Sorry Jon but the OE M/C's are garbage and have been for a very long time (and I used to always use only Girling/Lucas cylinders on race cars as they were very good, once upon a time)

I fitted a PBR 3/4" M/C years and years ago and it's been the only long term fix I've found, short of an SS sleeve in an OE type M/C.

Originally Posted by rick130

Sorry Jon but the OE M/C's are garbage and have been for a very long time (and I used to always use only Girling/Lucas cylinders on race cars as they were very good, once upon a time)

I fitted a PBR 3/4" M/C years and years ago and it's been the only long term fix I've found, short of an SS sleeve in an OE type M/C.

Interesting...

I am of course speaking from experiences in the UK, not here. It will be 3 or 4 years since I did the last one, but I did many on different Defenders before that. 'Back then' OE was the only way to go for longevity.

Has the fluid changed, or is it different fluid over here? A genuine or OE part will be the same the world over, or at least it should be! Afterall, you don't see many new Pumas with dead master cylinders so those that leave the factory must be ok!

When they fail (in the Uk) it's because the rubber seals die, nothing to do with the casing in the bore wearing away.

Touch wood, My 2006 TD5 is on its original master and slave, no oil leaks & UK fluid.

J

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just about to replace mine again (think I do it every 12mnths with oem ones), talked to local sleeve guy who reckoned it's something to do with geometry of pedal/pushrod in defenders , said what he does is machines an extra groove for an o-ring on rear of piston to support it better in bore. Talking $160ish to sleeve and rebuild.
Have heard pbr ones are better

Brett

110 300tdi

Part of the problem seems to be the choice of aluminium for the body. The steel piston wears the aluminium away (that's why the fluid is black when you bleed the system). As the clearance between piston & body opens up the seals have to work harder because they are sealing on a bigger diameter and the piston moves around. Finally it starts to leak past the seals.

My defender had the OEM master cylinder still fitted when I got it 13 years ago, after a few years it leaked so I re-sealed it. It's only a weekend car so doesn't get a lot of use. A couple of years ago it started leaking again so I fitted a stainless sleeved one.

Slave cylinder is cast iron and doesn't seem to have the same failure rate as the master cylinder.

Colin

I have a 2009 Puma which has done 30,000km. I noticed the clutch master cylinder fluid level was down 20mm or so and I looked for evidence of a leak at the master cylinder but couldn't see anything. I then tried to examine the slave cylinder for a leak also. But I just can't readily see the slave cylinder! I've been going deaf for some years now, and hopefully not blind too. Has it been deliberately hidden on the Pumas? I know it must be at the end of a hose from the Master cylinder and near the clutch area, but I can't see it.
And finally, loss of clutch fluid for me has always been due to a leak somewhere. Now I'm wondering if it also evaporates over time?