Thread: Clutch Master Cylinder - long term solution?

Got my Jeep Clutch m/c in the mail today, and not before time too, fluid is fairly running down the pedal.



swapped the old Landrover pushrod into the Jeep MC no dramas.
distance between mounting hole centres are the same and as is the outside dia where is mounts into the pedal tower.

Only issue is the hose fitting is a different thread and I had to get an adaptor made at Lilydale Brakes, $38

.

Fitted , usual PITA, but hopefully the last time I need to do it.

The Clutch pedal is noticeably lighter, a delight to drive.





.

If it's lighter is it a 5/8" bore ?

If so, is the pedal travel OK ?

As mentioned earlier in this thread, I just used a PBR 3/4" M/C that bolts straight up.

Problem solved.

Pretty frustrated, replaced mine about 6mths after purchasing the 1995 "one dirty" after fluid had stripped all paint off inside and out of firewall. Decided not to refit mats until had time to spray rusting panels with new paint. 3mths later, leaking again. After 12mths leaking real bad so forked out for new one from British Parts-Perth. Nice weekend so decided to respray all affected areas which as you would know was a right job taping up. Sat morn open drivers door only to spy the fn thing was leaking again, one week later!
Have contacted Perth Brake Parts, can re sleeving spare one for $160, glad I didnt ditch it.
Many comments on this thread refer to correct fluid. What is correct fluid. Will try DOT 3 instead of DOT 4 unless anyone can advise me not too??

Me too, sort of
Ok so it turns out my Defender has turned its nose up at the Jeep m/cyl, must have a faulty return valve, I'm sure this thing is alive
so whats happening with each press of the clutch slightly more fluid stays in the slave cyl and dosent return to the m/cyl. the pedal gets higher with each push. so every 20klm (city driving) or so I have to stop and crack the nipple on the slave to release the pressure.
I bought a new Stainless steel sleeved 3/4" aftermarket M/cyl from Fred Smith in Bayswater $120 . So far so good. Using PBR Dot3 fluid from Supercheap Auto.

Will continue to use Dot3 in the Clutch from now on

Im also going to order a RedBooster next week that way the M/cyl will be dead easy to replace as it will be pointing forwards.

Don you know you don't need a red booster to get the clutch pedal like a 300TDI,
Just a simple change of springs on the pedal will do it

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic6616.html

Thanks Duane,
I have been happily using the Tdi spring but the Jeep M/cyl spoiled me, The Clutch was OOOOOooohh so light , just like a 'Cruiser , now with the rover 3/4 M/cyl back in the tdi spring was somehow stopping the pedal from coming all the way up, to give me some pedal free play I put the Td5 spring back & its now like driving a Terex

Perhaps I'm just going weak at the knees.

(Btw , just ordered an oil cooler for the R380 - same as yours, thanks for the idea)

Originally Posted by goingbush

Me too, sort of
Ok so it turns out my Defender has turned its nose up at the Jeep m/cyl, must have a faulty return valve, I'm sure this thing is alive
so whats happening with each press of the clutch slightly more fluid stays in the slave cyl and dosent return to the m/cyl. the pedal gets higher with each push. so every 20klm (city driving) or so I have to stop and crack the nipple on the slave to release the pressure..

There shouldn't be any valves and if it's doing as you say I would guess the hose is crook or the free play is not adjusted correctly. What part number was the jeep cylinder? And where did you get it?