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Thread: Post-recovery rapid battery drain

  1. #1
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    Post-recovery rapid battery drain

    Following the GHM outing on the weekend, which culminated in me putting my Defender on its side, I seem to have a voltage leak somewhere. Matt and I suspect that it's somewhere along the right chassis rail (trailer electrics perhaps). We came to this conclusion after a few hours of testing.

    The drain was so rapid that we could watch it drop on the multimeter. Probably about .01 volts per 5 seconds.

    We followed the POS lead from the battery compartment under the passenger seat, through the firewall, to the starter motor. From there, we traced the current draw to a box of fuses on the engine bay side of the firewall. There were 4 slots for fuses. The closest to the engine was empty, the next two were 60A, and the last was 30A. It seems that the current was being drawn through the first of the 60A fuses, so it was the 2nd socket from the front of the car. As far as we could tell by the wiring diagram, this fuse branches off to feed several things.

    Could anybody tell me what it might be? I just drove home from Matt's without the fuse, and didn't notice anything not working. My guess was power steering, or power brakes, but they both worked. We saw something to do with the trailer wiring on the diagram, and the drag chain was wrapped around the chassis rail, and could have damaged the wiring in the process of recovery, but we couldn't find anything wrong with the wiring in the spot where we had the chain. No broken insulation or anything like that.

    It's a 95 defender by the way, with a 300tdi and a dual battery system with an old-school solenoid which seems to keep saving my auxilliary battery from death. I've just been jump starting from the aux battery in the meantime, because it's also shallow cycle.

  2. #2
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    without looking at the diagrams...

    check the aux feed in the trailer plug harness if its not showing full battery voltage there's your suspect
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    without looking at the diagrams...

    check the aux feed in the trailer plug harness if its not showing full battery voltage there's your suspect
    One of the 7 pins was reading something. I can't remember which pin, or what we were reading. I'll have to have another look.

  4. #4
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    So after it killed a brand new battery yesterday, I'm a lot more cautious about what the voltage is doing, so I got a brand new replacement and hooked it all up again.

    Both starter and aux batteries started at about 20v straight after hooking them up, and within a few minutes were down to 19v

    I unhooked the new starter, starting with the positive lead, then the black linkage between the two negative battery terminals, then the negative lead itself on the starter. Both batteries continued to drain the entire time.

    Matt and I reckon the new battery started really high because that's how they come from the factory, so when I hooked it up, it pushed the aux battery up with it. Now we both suspect it might be normal for a battery to 'settle in' with first use. Can anyone confirm this? I'm gonna continue taking readings, and if it drops below 12v, I'll take the new battery off and charge it, so I don't kill another brand new battery.

  5. #5
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    Also bear in mind that the fuse is still sitting out, so if our diagnostics were correct, then the leak is still isolated, and this is just the battery 'settling in'. If we're incorrect, it's continuing to drain, and the problem is still there somewhere.

  6. #6
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    12:05pm

    Starter 16.73V

    Aux 17.06

    12:30pm

    Starter 16.63

    Aux 16.98

  7. #7
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    With those voltages I would also look at what your alternator is putting out we have a 300 tdi d1 and the volt meter sits on 13.8 most of the time so we cant get more than that in the batteries
    How long were the two batteries linked together?

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    Quote Originally Posted by THE BOOGER View Post
    With those voltages I would also look at what your alternator is putting out we have a 300 tdi d1 and the volt meter sits on 13.8 most of the time so we cant get more than that in the batteries
    How long were the two batteries linked together?
    As soon as I bought the new battery today, I linked it all up how it's supposed to be, with the Starter connected to the Aux via direct link on negative terminals.

    Alternator is 100amp, but I took the initial readings before I started the car with today's new battery, and after I installed everything. So, I don't suspect the alternator.

  9. #9
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    20v+ 19V?

    thats bad, thats very very bad......
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    20v+ 19V?

    thats bad, thats very very bad......
    What does it mean though? Are we absolutely sure that new sealed batteries don't settle in from a high voltage?

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