Master
Today finished replacing my sliders with ....... side steps! SWMBO decided she had enough of the 560mm step up into the cab with the sliders. Now only 420mm step up and in. So - lost 140mm of air under the sides... just have to be more careful in the rocky/ledge country I guess. The things we do. Pics of before and after..... Are a second hand set of steps - had them blasted and re-powder coated (the original finish was pretty rubbish and peeling) and treated the blasted inside of the tubes with Lanotech. SWMBO is smilingme.....
ForumSage
Same problem here, Dept of Finance 'suggested' the step be lowered or made wide enough for a whole foot, I eventually took it off to extend the rail outward by an inch or so and with angle grinder in hand had a brainwave to invert the top section of the RHS instead of extending the rail out - which I did not really want to do. Result actually looks pretty good & passes the 'OHS' test .
Swaggie
mate i'm with your, i dont see that you have gained anything. did you consider some chequer plate on your existing steps?
Super Moderator
Has anyone ever made the side steps two position spring loaded?
If you took this design, make the anchorage on the chassis rails a hinged pivot with top and bottom stops and a spring with about 10Kg return pressure. It could even have a lock for the down position, with a cable release from inside the cab on the seatbox.
For off roading it is in the up, regular rock slider position and when it's needed as a step only a little pressure is needed to push it down to the step position.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Swaggie
good idea........maybe Mulgo will pick it up and run with, too late to copyright now
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
Has anyone ever made the side steps two position spring loaded?
If you took this design, make the anchorage on the chassis rails a hinged pivot with top and bottom stops and a spring with about 10Kg return pressure. It could even have a lock for the down position, with a cable release from inside the cab on the seatbox.
For off roading it is in the up, regular rock slider position and when it's needed as a step only a little pressure is needed to push it down to the step position.
ChatterBox
hmmm if he doesn't i might
Master
Hi Kelvin, "Goingbush", I had non slip tape on the sliders and adding checker plate would not have solved the problem of "its too bloody high to get into". The hinged step is a good idea tho..... The way I figure it the 'new' steps are sacrificial - I wont get upset if they get bent.....
Master
I should add that the fender has a 2 inch lift which didn't help the large step up onto the sliders.
Super Moderator
Design 2: same as above with a linear motor when the door opens the the courtesy light switch operates and the motor re-positions the bar into the "step" position. Close the door the motor retracts the bar to "rock slider" position.
Most importantly, just like the Puma there are now more electrical gizmos to break down!
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
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