Thread: 98 110 Power steering pump

Irrepairable Serg, the beginning of failure IS a leak at the front seal, and at worst case the shaft starts to move out of the front of the pump, shredding the main drive belt too.
Time for a new one




JC

Thanks JC, atleast I have caught it and new ones arent too expensive. I had a quick read of RAVE, is it as simple as removing the viscous fan and getting the pump out? looks tight in there.

I do wonder about the on flow effect......could it be that the failing steering box sends small sector shaft particals through the system that the PSP doesnt like??? Im thinking, in my case, the steering box has been braking down before the PSP.....in any case I should get on it soon as I dont want crap going through the new steering box

looks like ill have to pic up some more PS fluid

I just ordered one. I should have asked here first if there is anything else I need to replace as part of the job. I take it I reuse my pulley? How hard is it to get off in good working order? I have 2 jaw pullers, are these ok?

so going by RAVE, which makes you jump from section to section, I need 2 special tools to remove the viscous fan, BUT, becasue I have AC, I need to remove the fan cowl, which means draining the coolant.....

Now I have just done the coolant, (due to poor fitted hose) I have just done the PS fluid, (steering box leak/damage) and what PMO more is the fact the engine was completely rebuilt only 5k ago....there is no way these items were not leaking then and I was never informed or offered to have them done at what have been the best time job wise

Where is a good place to buy the LR special tools from?

To remove the viscous fan you need a 32mm viscous fan spanner, also called a 'Ford' viscous fan spanner as this is a common ford size. Note. The viscous fan nut is a left hand thread. You'll need one of theses spanners.

The other claw looking tool grabs around the bolts on the hub so that the viscous fan nut can be undone. You can get by without this tool. One method is to jag a screwdriver or lever between the hub and the bolt heads but I don't recommend it as this can place undue strain on the cast flange these bolts screw into and break the flange. This is what I did when using the wrong spanner and jagging the bolt heads.
A better way is to leave the fan belt on and to jam a large rag into the V created by the visco fan pulley and belt using this tension to hold the pulley still when undoing/doing up the viscous hub nut with the correct spanner.

I bought a double ended viscous spanner 32mm & 36mm on line for less than $30. A wise investment as it's a major exercise to replace the broken cast hub/bearing.

Deano

32mm fan hub spanner as Deano said,sometimes a hit with a rubber mallet cracks the tension,remember they are a LH thread.The pump is easy,three 10mm bolts to get the pulley off and then 12mm from memory for the mounting bolts,crack all three 10mm bolts before doing anything else,if you pinch the fan belt to get tension on the pulley they'll undo easy. Pat

Originally Posted by PAT303

32mm fan hub spanner as Deano said,sometimes a hit with a rubber mallet cracks the tension,remember they are a LH thread.The pump is easy,three 10mm bolts to get the pulley off and then 12mm from memory for the mounting bolts,crack all three 10mm bolts before doing anything else,if you pinch the fan belt to get tension on the pulley they'll undo easy. Pat

Pat, mounting bolts are also 10mm,

JC

you guys make it sound so easy .....not alot of room to move. Is it correct that if I have AC I have to remove the fan cowl, which means drain the coolant...