Thread: Front lower shock mount chewed-out any common fixes?

cant you fill the hole with weld and re drill? rather than cutting the plate out or welding another plate on top

Remove anything that's in the way,
Prepare the area for welding,
Place a large heavy duty body washer in the correct place from under death and plug weld it in place from the top
Grind off the excess and externally weld another washer on top.
Clean up and redrill/ream the hole and your done.

Depending.on your available skill level
You can also bolt 2 of the larger outer bush control plates together either side of the hole with the concave side facing out then fill weld the wedge space created between the convex side and the mount.

Thanks for the replies.

I guess I was worried that welding anything to the top or bottom surface of the existing plate would mean I was left with too much material for the thread on the shock to go through. Blknight.aus are you suggesting to grind back and reduce the thickness of the body washer after welding or leave it full thickness?

It can probably survive a few less threads poking through, as long as I can get the nut started.

Nick

it sounds like you dont have a lot of thread fullstop!! i dont have this issue what shocks are you running?

You can get a replacement bracket from the UK. That would involve cutting the old one off the axle and welding the new one on in the exact same spot, which is well beyond my welding skill. I have the same problem, probably from driving up the cape too.

Jono

mr toyoto pin mount shocks use a metal cup washer with integrated sleeve over the pin
The OD of the sleev from memory is pretty close to 15mm
The issue will be whether your daper pin fits the sleeve ID

I have used these washers in place of standard damper cup washers in the past

Otherwise - weld the hole using a copper block backing plate on underside
- grind the top surface flat (bottom will be flat due to copper block)
- Dremel / air die grinder using a carbide tool to bring hole back to dim


S

The shocks have been there since the PO so I suspect they are the standard ones. I have OMEs in the back and will be using OMEs in the front.

Replacing the whole bracket seems the best fix to me but I'd be nervous about welding straight onto the axle housing.

I think I'll try the filler method. I haven't heard of using a copper block like that before. Where would I get a copper block? How thick does it need to be? I would expect they are not cheap?!

Regards
Nick

You can use Ally if you cant track down copper just wont last as long - just ensure it is at least 10mm thick

A piece of 20mm thick copper comes in very handy for many heat sinking tasks
Your local friendly scrap metal merchant would be one of the better places to look - take a six pack and scrounge around till you find what your looking for

S