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Thread: '94 Defender 110 Brake Fix

  1. 10th September 2012, 01:21 PM #1
    GyroLandy
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    '94 Defender 110 Brake Fix

    I have some serious issues with my brakes which I have not been able to fix so I have given up and will see whether a brake specialist can fix it. The pedal is very hard and does not seem to be assisted by the vacuum pump. I changed the master cyl, brake servo and measured the vacuum pump and all seems fine, so have no idea.

    My rear left caliper has started leaking recently so I still need to check whether it's the seals in the caliper or the steel line.

    Can one get braided hoses for the front and rear that replace the steel lines?

    I have quite a bit of sideways play on the brake pedal, is this due to the brake pedal bushes? If so, I see there aren't any in Australia so need to be Ex-UK but that costs about $50 per bush x2. Any ideas?
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  2. 10th September 2012, 02:07 PM #2
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    steveG
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    Certainly sounds like a booster/vacuum issue.
    Have you actually tested the booster, or just replaced it?
    Another silly question, but was it a new booster, or a used one. Its possible that the one you've fitted is also faulty.

    To test - do something along these lines:
    - Engine off
    - Apply/release brakes a few times to bleed any residual vacuum
    - Foot firmly on the brakes
    - Start the engine - you should feel the pedal sink a bit as the vacuum comes on if the booster is working correctly.

    I've heard of vacuum hoses collapsing internally and stopping the vacuum reaching the booster.

    Goodrich braided stainless lines can be had cheaply from Paddocks in the UK in either standard or +2" lengths. I've got them fitted to my '85 County. They are replacements for the standard rubber hoses - not sure why you would want to replace the steel lines with hose.

    Steve
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  3. 10th September 2012, 05:03 PM #3
    redrovertdi Guest
    Also check that the booster is not cracked/cracking around the master cylinder mounting studs. I replaced all my caliper pistons with stainless ones as they kept corroding and failing.
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  4. 10th September 2012, 07:04 PM #4
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    justinc
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    Number 1 check as mentioned that the booster isn't cracked around the mounts for the master cyl, also remove the hose to the booster while engine is running and measure the vac, should be almost totally 'pulse' free and about 18 to 20 inHg vacuum. The primary cause of hard brakes on Defenders are these 2 items.

    200 or 300 Tdi?


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  5. 10th September 2012, 11:45 PM #5
    GyroLandy
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    300Tdi.

    The reason I repalced the servo with a new one was after I read one of the previous threads on this. The old one did not have a crack but I replaced it anyway.
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  6. 11th September 2012, 09:10 PM #6
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    jakeslouw
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    Blocked hose between vacuum pump and booster
    Booster faulty
    Vacuum pump faulty
    Blocked brake fluid pipes at the master cylinder
    Failed master cylinder

    Apart from those, I cannot think what else could be wrong
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  7. 11th September 2012, 09:19 PM #7
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    Vern
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    Blocked brake hoses?
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  8. 14th September 2012, 08:36 AM #8
    GyroLandy
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    One more questsion, I'm replacing the flexible part of the hoses (2 at the front and one in the rear before it branches off to the rear wheels).

    When fitting tehse should I use soem sort of sealant or thread tape to ensure an airtight seal or can I just screw them in?
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  9. 14th September 2012, 08:47 AM #9
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    rick130
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    Never any sealant or tape !

    Unscrew the old fittings and screw the new ones on, the taper on the two faces creates the seal

    Oh, then bleed.
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