Thread: Advise Appreciated on a few accessories Please!

Where do you live? If you live near Sydney go and have a chat to Daniel at Mulgo. You won't be able to fit the external racks with a Safari or LR snorkel. The LR RAI needs some work to seal it up but it is a good design for dissipating dust. I would go with the Windcheater or Hannibal roof rack. The external cage costs about $6000 at least and is not easy to fit as it comes through the body panels.

I bought my 110 with an LRA tank, I've had no problems with it.

Another option is to keep the original tank and fit the small tank that goes in the RH rear quarter panel. Have a look at the Front Runner | 4x4 Accessories | Roof Racks | Fuel Tanks website. They are available locally from Opposite Lock.

This gives you a cheaper option and almost as much fuel as the LRA LR Tank, and a bit more ground clearance (comparing STD tank to LRA).

I may be wrong, which I seem to be often just ask the wife.
But I thought in the LR brochure that the LR snorkel is not a snorkel and is not intended for water crossing use as per Tjm, Safari, etc, but is only a raised air intake.

Originally Posted by chook73

The main thing to consider with long range tanks is where you want the weight of the fuel. Replacement tanks put all of the additional load over the rear of the rear axle where as sill tanks place it between the axles.

With the sill tanks you loose a little clearance in certain situations however its all a trade off and greatly depends on what you are planning to do with the vehicle in the long run (i.e. tourer or weekend rock climber). The other benefit with sill tanks is that you are compartmentalising the fuel so a hole in a tank or in some situations contaminated fuel may not be a show stopper.

I have the rear quarter panel 45l tank and the drivers side sill tank for fuel (60l) and then use the passengers side sill tank (40l) for water. I will eventually get a 40l rear quarter tank made up for the passengers side water for long trips.

As I stated before the problem with the rear quarter tanks is the weight is placed behind the rear axle.

As for the roll cage the safety devices one is the only one people seem to be recommending Motorsport, Expedition, Fleet and Military Roll Cages & Roll Over Protection Systems | Safety Devices. I believe that Daniel from Mulgo is now fitting them but they are not cheap but then neither is the vehicle.

Roof racks, the windcheetah gets my vote, again Daniel from Mulgo and as your Sydney based it would be worth having a chat to him about it all as he is a good guy and very passionate about defenders.

Chook,

Thanks for that, the link to safety devices was helpful, and I will definiately be making my way over to Mulgo..

Thank you as well to everyone else who has input on this thread, appreciated.

Also why would it be such a big problem to have an extra 50 odd litres behind the rear axle?

Originally Posted by Greyfox

I may be wrong, which I seem to be often just ask the wife.
But I thought in the LR brochure that the LR snorkel is not a snorkel and is not intended for water crossing use as per Tjm, Safari, etc, but is only a raised air intake.

[QUOTE=Sue;1796951]Is it a 90 or a 110?.. that makes a huge difference in regards to larger tanks..

Sue,

Its a 110. Cheers.

Originally Posted by Greyfox

I may be wrong, which I seem to be often just ask the wife.
But I thought in the LR brochure that the LR snorkel is not a snorkel and is not intended for water crossing use as per Tjm, Safari, etc, but is only a raised air intake.

If you want to believe that TJM etc raised air intakes are actually snorkels then so be it but just to make it clear, maximum wading depth for a Puma is 500 mm which is close to the sills. At 600 mm you have water on the floor in the front of the vehicle. At 750 mm you have water entering the back. At 900 mm you reach the bottom of the air intake, but at this depth some sensitive electronics and your battery are under the water. From the external air intake, the ducting rises within the engine compartment with the bottom of the ducting (at its lowest point) being close to 1000 mm. We are talking some seriously deep water here. The Defender is not a boat. You may be able to get through such depths for a shortish distance but you must not stop. At that depth you clearly should use some sort of sheet over the front of your vehicle to make a bow wave and to keep the water out of the engine bay. In water crossing, a raised air intake is not a snorkel as some would like to foolishly consider them. However they are useful to keep splashing and small waves, etc. from getting into the air intake. If the water is 500 mm or less then you should not need a wading sheet, and you can change gear, etc. At depths greater than 600 mm you will start to loose traction because of flotation (until the vehicle fills with water). This is a particularly serious issue if the water you are crossing is fast flowing. You also need to be mindful that if you cause any damage to your vehicle by crossing water deeper than the recommended maximum you may find that you are not be covered by warranty nor insurance. I am sure TJM and Safari would not be paying for a rebuild if you hydraulic the engine.

Cheers
KarlB

Asked the salesman this morning about the raised air intake, they dont seal it. So I told him to take it off or tell service department to seal it up as I plan on going through water,and they would be responsible if I damaged the motor. He phoned me back and said they were going to seal up every joint