tis easy...
measure the max fuel screw setting
remove the fuel screw
remove the top
replace the seal
put the top back
replace the fuel screw
set at the original measurement
Use a vernier caliper to measure the screw... fractions of turns count.
Sorry to shout but I've almost had it with my rover! Third time I have stripped the front cover and set the timing belt. I just cant win.
This last attempt took off the timing case, which meant the FIP had to come off. I've put it all back together, timed it up and she started sweet, and sounded great.. yippee I thought, finally I can get the show on the road.
BUT NOOOOO.. It seems I must continue to endure land rover induced pain and suffering! I checked the engine bay for leaks and all looked dry and happy until I noticed the FIP leaking in rapid drops and this is at idle!
It appears to be dropping off the throttle arm. A search on google suggests the throttle shaft seal may have decided to give me a slap.
Here is a pic of where the leak is coming from:
Now I'm almost sure it was not leaking like this before, but perhaps it was only under load and now its just crapped it completely. Could I have done something when I removed it? Would many test starts with air to purge cause this? The only other thing I've done is remove the top cap and rotate the diaphragm to MINIMUM fueling. I thought it best to start cautiously on my new CH.
I'm gutted, last Christmas I was supposed to do a 4x4 adventure tour with friends after just having imported it from UK (a lot of work to get it here!), but all hope of that vanished soon after it arrived in Australia - the gasket went taking the CH with it!
A whole year later and there I was thinking I had finally gotten round to fixing the motor to a reliable standard. We had planned to take a trip up to Kangaroo Island this holiday season as a first test run but now I fear for that. Not being to drive it about Auz this summer would be embarrassing... 12 months of friends and family asking 'have you got the landy running yet'... errr nooooo not yet.
I know FIP work is best left to the experts and therefore expensive... My finances are as good as booked out till the new year.
Amongst episodes of land rover despair there has been hope, and often it has been provided by the members of this great forum. So thank you for all the help over the past year. I wish I could post some photos of the LR out in the wilderness instead of just busted bits in my garage! I've now reached a point where I just want to seal up the garage and forget the blasted thing.
If anyone can offer me a way to sort out the FIP that wont cost me the earth I would love to hear it. Or even some words of encouragement may help. What also pains me is I will have to take the bloody timing belt off again to remove the pump! ARGGHH..
Right now I'm not sure that I own a land rover!
tis easy...
measure the max fuel screw setting
remove the fuel screw
remove the top
replace the seal
put the top back
replace the fuel screw
set at the original measurement
Use a vernier caliper to measure the screw... fractions of turns count.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Its always easy for you Blknight!
I'm still unsure.
I found this which gives a better description of the process.
How to replace the throttle spindle seal on a Tdi Injection pump - International Forum - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
I have read it three times and I still cant get myself to feel confident enough to do it. I'm pretty good at stuffing things up. Perhaps I'll start by finding a supplier for the required parts.
Good that both you and those in the linked thread seem to think its easy though. Some hope that I may be able to fix myself... I must be low on confidence, because all I can think about is the consequence of stuffing it up!
The part numbers listed are for 300tdi
spindle bush 1460324333
Oring 1460210008
cover gasket 1461015302
Anyone know the 200tdi (discovery) part numbers or a resource for looking them up?
I make it sound easy because that part of the pump is easy, theres nothing uber technical in there to be worried about.
the difficult bit is all the stuff down in the main pumping body and thats only hard because if you want to do an in situ you have to do it with the pump horizontal.
depending on when you want to do it you're welcome to my phone number and I'll talk you through it.
hell the donk Im ripping apart has an IP on it I was going to overhaul as a spare for SWMBO's vehicle, if you want to pay the postage once I have it off I'll send it down for you to have a practice on.
PM me for details if you're interested.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I got some replies from a couple of reputable diesel shops.
1st
claims described throttle shaft leak fix will not last. Over 180,000KM or 8 years before these units start to throw out leaks. More will follow. $700 to repair the shaft leak and calibrate the pump. That's pump landed on counter!
2nd
Could range between $250 and $600+GST. Claims it is very unusual for the pump to be leaking from the throttle shaft due to a seal failure. The main reason for a leak is because of wear on the throttle shaft and governor cover of the pump.
Interesting.. Does that sound right?
I cant do $600 now so I have to try and take a look at it myself. I'll post pictures on here for help with diagnosis. I'll be happy if it only clears the leak long enough to get some holiday motoring done!
My Pump# 0460 414 069
Spindle Bush $16.90+gst
Spindle O-Ring $1.60+gst
Throttle Cover Gasket $3.50+gst
They need to be ordered in so I wont be able to pick them up until Monday. I'll be taking the top cover off this weekend to have a look at the throttle pin.
Note to self:
I'll clean the pump and work area before I start, go slow with lots of photos and hopefully get the throttle pin out without cocking it up. Once out I'll wrap the pump in cling film, and take a breather (aka beer!).
The story so far in emoticons:[to be continued...]
I'll back the second opinion but remember just because the shaft doenst often leak doesnt mean it cant. The mob that I PM'd you the number for have the kit on shelf
the pump in the tdi200 I have appears original and is over 400K Km (odo doesnt work) and still has the paint marks on the linkages.
the complete pump reseal kit is about $70 (about 80% of this can be DIY on the engine)
the common overhaul kit is something like $140 (80% of this can be DIY on engine)
and the rebuild kit is about $250 (youve got to pull it)
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
OK I have started.
Everything clean as can be, I've removed the banjos, the throttle arm ajd loosened the four bolts holding the top cover down.
Looking at the max power screw it appears to have some kind of anti-tamper thing on it.
How do I remove it?
hmm not so clean back here..

broke off the plastic collar with a screwdriver. I let the metal sleeve stay, no problems screwing it out.
The problem I did have was getting the top off, it was stuck on the bottom rear bolt mounting point, the one you cant see! After double checking that I had removed all the fixing points I tried as I could to gently move the top off whilst pushing the throttle spindle through
The bottom right had a dowel which was stuck and even with careful pulling when it let go the top jolted up and off and took the spindle out with it. Bloody dowel!
So I've probably shafted it now right?
I can't see anything broken, so I'll so I'll do myself a favor and pretend all is just fine whilst I take my job done beer break!
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