Thread: EGR Blank plate Puma

I have an ATRIC remap that seems to do the job well - ie it tweaks the rail pressures and switches off the EGR. To be quite honest i don't see any massive improvement in fuel economy; it seems that engine revs & gear ratios/changes are set so you tend to burn the same amount of diesel.
What you do see however is a MASSIVE increase in power, especially when towing. EG: I regularly made the run to Bendigo (Victoria) towing up steep hills pre-ATRIC and post. Defee backs right down to 50-60km/hr 3rd gear up the steep runs normally; with remap and EGR shut I cruise up at 90km/hr in 5th (in fact done in 6th at 100 km/hr too but only as a test; don't recommend using your 'lightest' gear regularly whilst straining under load).
As mentioned, ATRIC allows you to reset ECU to original map when you go to the st(d)ealers which is necessary else they might reset everything and mess up your remap. This means the EGR switches back on. Recently I went in for 70K service and the EGR is 'squawking' like a chook - possibly due for a failure as others have mentioned (30-60k failure) or possibly partly to being closed as soot buildup accelerated (either way it would have happened). Dealer replacement @$550 as I am out of warranty period. I too am interested in a permanent blanking kit but ATRIC/Alivetuning do not do (except for TD5). This is the response they gave me only today when I queried..."If the egr is shut, then it will never need to operate. You could make a simple blank plate from a bit of sheet steel, which you could place between the exhaust manifold and egr valve. We don't have these, and never had needed them, so don't have a pattern."
May not solve problems of 'warning light' or having to reset to original map for dealer servicing so if anyone has any ideas I'd be interested too.
Hope this helps a bit!!

I'd say 2 things.....

1. A blanking plate is completely unnecessary if you use these remaps. Shut is shut! Mine sounded like a chook without remap - that's why I got one. Sure, a plate (added in combination) would prevent chook impressions when standard tune were selected but the EM light would be illuminated so the dealer would be wise to it anyway, and you would be unaware of masked issues that may arise during the period you were using such a configuration. Just leave the map in place! I have a consul in the event that years down the track, if I inadvertently use a dealer and they put the latest LRA software on, I can **** it off and restate my map.

2. My driving style hasn't really changed post map...I drive conservatively, still do - and now I get 10% better economy no doubt about it. The odometer doesn't lie.

Originally Posted by Scallops

I'd say 2 things.....

1. A blanking plate is completely unnecessary if you use these remaps. Shut is shut! Mine sounded like a chook without remap - that's why I got one. Sure, a plate (added in combination) would prevent chook impressions when standard tune were selected but the EM light would be illuminated so the dealer would be wise to it anyway, and you would be unaware of masked issues that may arise during the period you were using such a configuration. Just leave the map in place! I have a consul in the event that years down the track, if I inadvertently use a dealer and they put the latest LRA software on, I can **** it off and restate my map.

2. My driving style hasn't really changed post map...I drive conservatively, still do - and now I get 10% better economy no doubt about it. The odometer doesn't lie.

Thanks for the info. My understanding from atric was to always return the ecu to original when take to mechanic/dealer. If dealer overwrites then could cause problem when you reflash the ecu. Is this correct? If true will always have the "chook" noises even for short period while in service. Hence the desire for a more permanent physical fix

I know it would be a lot of stuffing around, BUT, would it be feasable to re-route the EGR back into the exhaust system thus bypassing the intake manifold?

Originally Posted by firsttimedefender

Thanks for the info. My understanding from atric was to always return the ecu to original when take to mechanic/dealer. If dealer overwrites then could cause problem when you reflash the ecu. Is this correct? If true will always have the "chook" noises even for short period while in service. Hence the desire for a more permanent physical fix

The only reason to ever take the remap off and replace with the original factory map is if the vehicle is under the original 3 year warranty and you get it serviced by LRA. This is purely because the remap may invalidate your warranty. If you reinstate the factory map (which is the 2nd file on your ATRIC consul), no one is any the wiser....your vehicle is stock, no question, no potential warranty issue. Obviously, the fact that you have an ATRIC containing a remap is your business and not information to be shared.

In this circumstance, if at the time of service, your factory map (that you just replaced) is again replaced by the current LR factory map, all you need to do is hook your ATRIC back up and reinstate the performance remap you bought using your ATRIC consul. Simple as that. There will be no issue at all re-flashing it. You can replace your remap with your standard tune yourself - anytime, and then replace the performance map without issue using your consul....you can do it, I can do it, the bloke next door could do it if we have your consul ....so there is no difference if the dealer removes your factory map (or even your remap for that matter) and replaces it with a current factory map....you simply put your performance remap back when you've finished at the dealer's workshop...

If the vehicle is out of warranty and you still use a LR dealer to do your servicing, you could simply ask them to leave your map as is. I have the consul in the event that one day, sometime, somewhere, if I get my vehicle serviced by a dealer (say on a big trip away from home) and I forget to tell them to leave my map as is, and they inadvertently put the latest LR software on in it's place (which I don't want because my chook will be awakened!).....If that ever happens, I'll just replace my flash before I drive off.... It takes all of 4 or so minutes and is trivial.

Again, there is absolutely no reason whatsoever to fit a blanking plate if you have these remaps.

Thanks for helping us get over our delusions of EGR grandeur! I'm rapt with the atric console & it's good to know about being able to overwrite anytime. One thing also advantage with console is you have ability to clear & read faults at anytime too. After this I am currently redoing my fuel economy assessments (original vs remap)

this might be a stupid question scallops but did u fit this yourself if not were do i get this done also can you get imobilizer taken off because i could see that giving trouble 1 day

Originally Posted by red roo

this might be a stupid question scallops but did u fit this yourself if not were do i get this done also can you get imobilizer taken off because i could see that giving trouble 1 day

It's not a fitted part - it's an ECU software update. But yes, as it happens - I did do it myself, which simply involved plugging the Atric into my vehicle (panel under RHS of driver shelf) and selecting the performance map file.