Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 30 of 30

Thread: new discs and pads.. now super noisy

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ascot Vale, Melbourne
    Posts
    161
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by inken_dave View Post
    I hope this helps! I had the same problem when I purchased my second hand 1997 110!

    Some history!

    Brakes started to squeal, just like you said, almost unbearable! I replaced the disks and the pads. Squeal disappears for a couple of thousand on k's, then returns!

    How I fixed the problem and some theory which fits the observation!

    Ok so initially I has just re-assemble the caliper as I found it. The anti-squeal plate sitting not bonded between the pad, and the caliper piston. With the older caliper, I noticed that the harmonics were created but the piston worn in a way which allowed the brake pad to start to wear at an angle other than perpendicular to the brake disk.

    This angle I found would wear on both side, and effectively making the the brake pad ever so slightly convex(curved outwards), only enough to create the harmonic, you could not see it just by looking!

    Anyway, how I fixed the problem!

    Bought new pads! Bonded the shim/anti-squeal plate onto the brakepad using engineering grade silicon. Then inserted the pad assembly into the caliper with enough silicon to bond the pad assembly to the piston. Enough silicon means that when the caliper is relaxed, the pad assembly still is attached to the piston.

    Assembled both sides like this, as soon as they were assembled, I applied heavy brake pedal pressure, then left it overnight to cure before driving.

    25000 km's later no noise.

    My theory is that the silicon allows the pad and squeal plate to always align in a worn caliper? Maybe I'm completely wrong, but it worked for me.

    I know how bad it can get, I was seriously ready to sell the Defender!

    Hope this helps!
    Didn't work

    Im thinking next step... replace the discs with genuine LR discs... if that doesnt fix it, next step replace the calipers with geuine calipers...

    That must surely fix the problem. Every part will have been replaced by then!

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you can isolate which side is the noisy side, then try a new set of caliper pistons and seals. I have had a very noisy LHR caliper on my RR and new pistons and seals fixed it as it was horrific. I would say that in my case the fault was 1 sticking piston that would apply force to 1 side of the brake pad when applied. anyway, I had tried pads, discs, antisqueal shims bla bla and this was THE fix.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    under a rock, next to a tree, at Broadmarsh
    Posts
    6,738
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Some chatter about brakes

    Digging a bit deeper.

    The cups in the wheel bearing may have some very faint chatter marks around them and they can only be seen when the bearings are washed spotless, then the light needs to be at the right angle to see those marks.

    If there is noise from there, it gets transported to the discs and so on it goes.
    .

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Tumbi Umbi, Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    5,768
    Total Downloaded
    0
    My experience with squealing brakes is that the rears always squealed after driving for a while on dusty roads.

    If I used the brakes a few times, the squeal would gradually disappear and would only return if I drove for a km or two on a dusty road without using the brakes.

    When I bought some new front pads recently, I asked about anti squeal shims or adhesive. I was told that the only thing needed was the film of rubber on the back of the pads they supplied. I think they were Bendix. He claimed that anything else was likely to create problems rather than solve them.

    Recently the rear brakes started squealing much worse than they had ever done before and no amount of braking reduced the noise.

    When I dismantled the brakes, I found that one of the shims had been dislodged a bit and appeared to have been making contact with the pistons in a couple of slightly different places and the coating on the shim was chewed up a bit. The shim would not have been making contact across the full surface of the piston.

    I glued the shims to the pads so that they couldn't move at all and refitted them and the brakes haven't squealed since, except briefly when I drive on dusty roads.

    The only explanation I can think of is that the chewed up shim was allowing the pad to vibrate and that the movement of the shim was preventing good, firm contact with the piston.

    Anyway, the quite alarming squeal that had appeared quite suddenly disappeared, so I'm happy. I'm not sure if any of that helps you though.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  5. #25
    Judo's Avatar
    Judo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Parkdale, Melbourne
    Posts
    2,919
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by BST4X4XFA View Post
    Hi there Chris,

    Changed the pads on my TD5 as they were getting to the end of their life. The elcheapo's squealed like crazy, replaced with Bendix 4x4 pads and it still squealed. I had to get my rotors machined to get rid of the glazing.

    I know you mentioned that you fitted new rotors and pads. If the first set of pads glazed the rotor then it will keep on squealing even with proper pads. Have a look at the braking surface of your rotors.

    Hope you can silence it soon.

    Cheers, Jurgens.
    I purchased some rear Bendix pads for my Disco months ago but haven't fitted them yet. Can't be long before I will need to fit them.... Hopefully this doesn't happen to me! I'll try remember to post back here with results anyway.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ascot Vale, Melbourne
    Posts
    161
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    If you can isolate which side is the noisy side, then try a new set of caliper pistons and seals. I have had a very noisy LHR caliper on my RR and new pistons and seals fixed it as it was horrific. I would say that in my case the fault was 1 sticking piston that would apply force to 1 side of the brake pad when applied. anyway, I had tried pads, discs, antisqueal shims bla bla and this was THE fix.

    JC

    Im pretty sure its both sides at the rear.. il check today though.

    Sounds pretty plausible that this could be the issue, only thing is On my Defer there is only one piston per pad at the back... so two per caliper. So Im thinkin that even if its sticking slightly it is still going to push square?

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ascot Vale, Melbourne
    Posts
    161
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by wrinklearthur View Post
    Digging a bit deeper.

    The cups in the wheel bearing may have some very faint chatter marks around them and they can only be seen when the bearings are washed spotless, then the light needs to be at the right angle to see those marks.

    If there is noise from there, it gets transported to the discs and so on it goes.
    .
    Im pretty sure it is a brake squeal noise.. its a pretty recogniseable noise!

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by chris_mack View Post
    Im pretty sure its both sides at the rear.. il check today though.

    Sounds pretty plausible that this could be the issue, only thing is On my Defer there is only one piston per pad at the back... so two per caliper. So Im thinkin that even if its sticking slightly it is still going to push square?
    Same system as the RRC, 2 pot rear calipers. It doesn't have to be much of an uneven amount, either. When I overhauled the caliper the pistons came out easily and weren't leaking but were definately pitted and near the outer edge the chrome face was flaking off.

    New pistons and seals and silence

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ascot Vale, Melbourne
    Posts
    161
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Excellent... il look into that monday then. Iv never changed pistons before, anything i need to know or is it all pretty straightforward ?

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Ascot Vale, Melbourne
    Posts
    161
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Job done, and sweet sweet silence! So provisionally i would say JustinCs recommendations did the job! (assuming the dreaded squeal doesnt return )

    Cheers for all the help and suggestions guys

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!