Thread: Defender FTW!

Hi,

I run a lifted defender (County really), amount is 2". I'd never go for more than this - too top heavy and your diffs still drag anyway. I needed to drill & rotate my swivels, double cardon on the front shaft,& bent rear radial arms for this lift.

I do a search there's plenty here and elsewhere to say that any more than 2" is probably not worth the effort.If you ask me, only lift as far as you need (no more) to clear the tyres you want to run.

Plan your tyres first I run 35" and they fit with room to spare with no guard trimming. They have big pockets under those guards. You'll need to spend big money on diffs after (four figures) after this if going bigger, even at 35" the stock gear will be marginal.

Lifting further and running long shock you'll have to raise the rear mounts, you can't do that easily on a wagon without putting big side angle on the shocks which tends to make them break or punching a hole in the floor (no thanks

Look at Gwyn Lewis this stuff is the best for the big lifts or really good articulation.
Gwyn Lewis 4x4 specialises in the design and fitting of off road equipment and preparation

Try MR automotive in QLD for lowered low ranges they come in 33% and 45%(I think from memory), I would not go to 45% if you're running a V8 too slow & low otherwise. Change the cross pins in the centre diff to a solid while you're at it too. Could try Ashcroft's transmissions.


Read heaps, there is plenty out there for Defenders, but last time a looked you couldn't get bundled together 4-6" lift kits from everywhere like you can for say a patrol.

Clive

I don't see much benefit lifting over 2" on a defender - you loose stability, easier to roll. Also higher than 2 and you need to do the props, crank the arms and all that. Just +2 it for some larger tires, add a pair of lockers and you'll be unstoppable.

Low ratio on the defender is pretty low, not enough? You can change the diff ratio with heavy duty r&p options from Ashcrofts.

edit: better to go for more articulation rather than ridiculously high lift - long travel shocks, spring re-locators etc. Look at X-eng for one.

Thanks for the replies guys. Yeah i have noticed that the defender is already a fairly high set truck, highest iv seen bar the old hilux. Yeah once had a patrol with huge lift and it was so unstable and always temped to roll. i don't mind spending on this next build so not too budget bound, but there is also no need to go stupid with stuff i don't need but will enter occasional comp so can't be to mediocre. I wan't to get something like this 5 Super-Lift Kit - As Fitted to Our Defender BBC Top Gears Range Rover

Just run the 3" coils and full kit without the body lift as i won't be needing 37,s. Can always add a 30mm poly spacer ?? Looking at doing the hi-tough axles and cv,s for the 35,s and lockers which should be okay. Maybe i don't need transfer reduction but will only know after i test the setup i guess.. this is a TD5 ute and am making a custom rear tube comp tray etc...

Any other input ?

Thanks,

You need to stop reading irrelevant rubbish and start reading things that are relevant to a Defender.You don't do body lifts on Defenders,no matter how big the wheels are you wish to fit.Everything has been done before,you just need to read read read.Then do the things that work and not do the things that don't.
These things have been discussed here and on other forums many many times over,so you won't be inventing the wheel.You just need to stop thinking Japanese or Disco and start with a blank canvas.

I would look carefully into your comp rules and the requirement of an internal cage. Due to the size of cab and the construction of body, it will require a large amount of $$ and work to get a simple cage in there.

ALot of winch challange comps will not allow an EXO cage....even though 1000's are used on LR's in the UK for their comp scene.

Originally Posted by LowRanger

You need to stop reading irrelevant rubbish and start reading things that are relevant to a Defender.You don't do body lifts on Defenders,no matter how big the wheels are you wish to fit.Everything has been done before,you just need to read read read.Then do the things that work and not do the things that don't.
These things have been discussed here and on other forums many many times over,so you won't be inventing the wheel.You just need to stop thinking Japanese or Disco and start with a blank canvas.

Yes thanks for that wake up lesson, im reading up as we speak.. yeah your right, its a whole different game with the defender as i have been reading. Yeah i did say that i would use that kit without the body lift as the body is already high set.

And yes will do, i am not doing an EXO, just custom tray that continues to sliders and side fender protection..

Cheers!

Originally Posted by uninformed

I would look carefully into your comp rules and the requirement of an internal cage. Due to the size of cab and the construction of body, it will require a large amount of $$ and work to get a simple cage in there.

ALot of winch challange comps will not allow an EXO cage....even though 1000's are used on LR's in the UK for their comp scene.

With a defender you can go the same way as a jeep and remove the roof, windscreen and fit series doors so the exo cage is now a support for some canvas roof.

Originally Posted by frantic

With a defender you can go the same way as a jeep and remove the roof, windscreen and fit series doors so the exo cage is now a support for some canvas roof.

still has to be internal, that is inside the cab, drivers side of the bulkhead/firewall. It has been done (Sam O and his Haultech 110) but this was a trailer comp truck. The body outrigger on a defender is infront of the bulk head, this is where the exo cages mount to....so If you go inside you need a fair bit of fab/custom work to be done just to pic this up. Unlike nissans and Toys where you can put a nice big spread plate on the cab floor....

Yes it can be done, but to be done well, and legal in QLD I would think mucho $$$$erlo