Defender rust, a warning for those who don't have it yet

**camel_landy** · 26th December 2012, 08:54 PM

Originally Posted by Reads90

Not a new problem. Just Australia does not suffer rust as bad as the uk.

Manily because they put salt on the roads in the uk

But all Land Rover parts companies do replacement parts that are needed because of rust. Just some of them. Bulkhead repair kits ( replaces from top corner bit where the top door hinge is right down to the chassis ), foot wells , doors frames ( Pre Puma panel Ali but steel frames), rear cross members are few yearly replacement item on defenders in the Uk , chassis hangers both sides front and year and front legs on the chassis ( where the bumper bolts to). Just a few things that will get replaced on a defender in the uk. All the time.

The problem I have had in Australia with my imported defender is the window channel has rusted. ( normal thing in the uk so replacement part) this means the window when it goes down it falls out of the channel and won't come back up. Been to MR and other land rover companies in Qld and all have looked at me with a tilted head and say why would you need to replace that , and when I say it has rusted they say what nah never had that before. So I can't get one so working on getting one imported.

BUT this is not only defenders but also RRC and Discos. In the uk you will find it very very hard to find and Disco 1 or RRC that will pass a roadworthy due to rust. Mainly rear floors, doors , top and bottom tailgates on RRC ( in fact so bad in the uk top and bottom tailgates for RRC command serious money if you can even find one ) . Sills and inner wings.

RRC are getting very very hard to find in the uk because most have rusted away. Last year at billing a 2 door RRC with no engine and left hooker sold for £10,000 just because the body had little rust

Wot he said... ^^^^

The salty conditions just eat the cars from the inside out. Then if you don't clean your chassis, the mud that gathers just soaks up the salt into the water and eats it away even faster... Including the brake lines!!!

M

**newhue** · 27th December 2012, 05:28 AM

I do wonder why LR never ran with the galvanised chassis. If there was a box to tick on the order form, for gal chassis, bulk head, zinc doors it would be a no brainer for me.
You can order a car to what colour you want, why not go the next level of rust protection. LR must know most Defender owners are slow turnover, so it would not matter to sales really.

**Chops** · 27th December 2012, 06:22 AM

Originally Posted by newhue

I do wonder why LR never ran with the galvanised chassis. If there was a box to tick on the order form, for gal chassis, bulk head, zinc doors it would be a no brainer for me.
You can order a car to what colour you want, why not go the next level of rust protection. LR must know most Defender owners are slow turnover, so it would not matter to sales really.

It's quite an easy task to have something Gal Coated prior to assembly, you'd think with the problems that have, it'd be a no brainer for them (LR). It may even help with alignment issues

So is a good coating of something like Lanotec/Inox (?) the way to go? I'm certainly looking to keep mine for a very long time, and I'm hopeing I'll get my fair share of beach driving in

**rick130** · 27th December 2012, 06:42 AM

Originally Posted by newhue

I do wonder why LR never ran with the galvanised chassis. If there was a box to tick on the order form, for gal chassis, bulk head, zinc doors it would be a no brainer for me.
You can order a car to what colour you want, why not go the next level of rust protection. LR must know most Defender owners are slow turnover, so it would not matter to sales really.

Originally Posted by Chops

It's quite an easy task to have something Gal Coated prior to assembly, you'd think with the problems that have, it'd be a no brainer for them (LR). It may even help with alignment issues

So is a good coating of something like Lanotec/Inox (?) the way to go? I'm certainly looking to keep mine for a very long time, and I'm hopeing I'll get my fair share of beach driving in

According to my ex-LRA engineer mate, the wax injection inside the chassis was pretty damned good back in the nineties, but that doesn't help the electrolysis between steel and aluminium or the bulkhead itself.

The Dinitrol Manic mentioned looks interesting.
I think I'll be chasing it up.

**scarry** · 27th December 2012, 08:01 AM

Originally Posted by landcol

Very timely thread as I'm having this problem right now! Didn't actually realize defenders were do prone. Been a bit oblivious I guess

And the Puma is also a shocker.The actual paint on the chassis is so thin it is unbelievable,and it appears to be just one coat.

Babs · 27th December 2012, 06:39 PM

Great, something else for me to start worrying about before it even happens. What is going go to be better this Dinitrol stuff or Lanotec spray?

There is bloody dust coming in from every panel joint inside, the panel under second row seat leaks dust and when I pressure washed the truck it blew all the mud inside, there is obviously dry muck in between the panels and it also seems to be coming in from the rear wheel arch down inside the inside of the truck. Pic attached

image-1274272633.jpg

What's the best way to clean this out and seal it up?
I was thinking of Sikaflexing the joints will this be a good option?

Also will this cause rust? The dust trapped between panels that is.

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**Marty110** · 27th December 2012, 07:09 PM

Had my 300Tdi for 13 years and 300k including beach driving. Had a electronic rust preventer and after every trip washed down everything - get to know where all the traps are for mud etc in and around the chasis and wash it out. As a soil surveyor (dig lots of holes) I had to pressure wash after every job so as not to transport soil. So good maintenance and maybe an electronic rust thingy??? Worked for me, mine had no rust anywhere when I sold it.

**manic** · 27th December 2012, 08:23 PM

I used Dinitrol 3125 in a spray can with an extension nozzle - great to work with!

I was in the UK at the time but there may be a product equally as good here in Aus, or can you get Dinitrol over here? You cant order pressurized cans from abroad

**scarry** · 27th December 2012, 09:19 PM

We use Tectyl,a Valvoline product,it seems to work well,is available at Autobarn,in 4litre tins.The spraycans are not very good,and expensive.

Babs · 29th December 2012, 09:06 PM

Ok I'm starting a thread on the electronic rust preventers.

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Thread: Defender rust, a warning for those who don't have it yet

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