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Thread: 98 110 Brake Calipers

  1. #1
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    98 110 Brake Calipers

    hey all, I have some brake calipers in my parts bin that I want to confirm are the correct type for my vehicle. This way I can rebuild them and do a change over rather than having the ones off my car and rebuilding refitting all in one day.

    Vehicle is 1998 300tdi 110 C/Chassis (vented front rotor, solid rear)

    Front:





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  2. #2
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    Rear:





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  3. #3
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    Serge, pics for the rear didn't turn out, but yes those are front Dfender calipers, the Disco ones aren't vented, and the vented RRC ones have twin brake hoses entering the caliper body on an angle.

    JC

  4. #4
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    Yep, defender.

  5. #5
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    Thanks JC,

    rear pics should be there now.

    I did some googling because I figured that there could be some similar but different LR calipers (eg 110 Front, solid disc not vented etc) and since I got these sent to me ages ago from a wreckers I wanted to be sure. I had only the ones on my truck to go off and unless they are in my hand I wasnt sure of any subtle differences.

    Googleing casting number 3247-683C gave me this page:

    Landrover Defender 1983 - Today 4 Cyl Petrol - 110 W/Base Front Brake Parts

    seems as that casting number was used for different 110 calipers on the same side (R or L). But as you scroll down you can see the differences, ie the pin/hole dia, the space for the pads. I threw my verniers on them and the seem good (7mm pin hole dia and 63mm pad gap) The other thing that confirms is the other casting number, LB 10 TY 016 AC, which on that link says its after 1993 + vented and thats the OEM number.

    So should be good to go right?

    If I have the correct calipers front and rear, is it true that the pistons and seals are the same? so in essence, I only need 3 kits, 1 each front and 1 for both rears?

  6. #6
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    Just to be clear guys, and for others reading, the 110s/Defenders from 1986-1993 had a different caliper to suit solid (non-vented) rotor. Correct?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    Just to be clear guys, and for others reading, the 110s/Defenders from 1986-1993 had a different caliper to suit solid (non-vented) rotor. Correct?
    yes, different pistons and pads also.
    they look to be the correct rears, too.
    jc

  8. #8
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    Just to add to this, I have been quoted the following prices etc

    Protex front stock rotor $65ea
    Bendex brake pads front full set L+R $90

    And this is the cailper rebuild kit im looking at:

    Shop 4 Auto Parts | C/PISTON REPAIR KIT STAINLESS 46MM 4 POT CALIPER SET

    Looks like it is made by EAC in the UK??

    Any thoughts on those prices or quality of brands?
    Any reason not to use stainless pistons?

    Are there any special tools required to rebuild the calipers?

  9. #9
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    main thing is don't split the calipers, use gentle compressed air to push pistons nearly all the way out, then grab with pliers and remove. Thorough cleaning with brake clean and compressed air, use either rubber grease (my usual way) or brake fluid to reassemble the inner seals and outer dust seal. Pistons should push in by hand, if not you have done something wrong

    They are easy peasy except for fitting the outer dust boot retaining ring, which can be a fiddle

    Those prices are cheap, there is no way for retail or wholesale stores with a shopfront than can compete with that. I can't even buy them from my suppliers for that, so trying to make a profit from the parts component of a job now is becoming harder and harder...

    JC

  10. #10
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    thanks JC,

    the rotor and pads are quoted from my local, around the corner, brake guy. The caliper kit is obviously from the UK and that is pounds, so have the conversion + shipping...

    I just quickly read RAVE, not that im going to, but what is the concern with splitting the calipers apart. (would have been the first place I started)

    Do bores get damaged? If I want to reduce the amount of brake clean I use when giving the whole thing its intial clean, is petrol ok? Im assuming after a good clean and then brake clean it be ok? Or would I be better using hot soapy water in a big tub.

    Im a bit anal when it comes to cleaning things. I figure you clean the whole thing rather than just the moving parts, otherwise you touch the dirty parts when assembling...

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