BAS/Bell Auto Services do a VNT kit too now, put together by Turbo Technics. 300 TDI Defender and Discovert Hybrid VGT VNT turbo | Diesel performance tuning and economy remap chip tuning for Landrover Defender Discovery TD5 Puma TDV6 TDV8
would love one of these though...
AlliSport Land Rover Defender 200 Tdi VNT Turbo Direct Replacement Turbocharger | eBay
BAS/Bell Auto Services do a VNT kit too now, put together by Turbo Technics. 300 TDI Defender and Discovert Hybrid VGT VNT turbo | Diesel performance tuning and economy remap chip tuning for Landrover Defender Discovery TD5 Puma TDV6 TDV8
cheers Rick,
MTQ in perth are chasing up the options for me, I have found the cartridge in this link, but I would like the local backup;
Turbocharger,Turbo repair kit ,Turbo Spare Parts
Product Name:CARTRIDGE AND CHRA 443854-0033 FOR Land rover TUBOCHARGER TBO242 465171-0002 465171-5002S ETC8751
Part No.:443854-0033
Turbo Model:GARRETT TURBOCHARGERS
Mark:LANDROVER
Application:465171-0002 465171-5002S ETC8751
I think that I should stay standard as over boosting is just going to increase the chances of something else failing. Play it safe I think (also, don't have the money for anything else!)
Well, MTQ got back to me a couple of days ago and the cartridge will cost me $900+ plus freight!
How does "no thanks" sound?!
Back to the rebuild option I think, but it doesn't solve the pitted compressor though. having said that, the balancing doesn't look like it should cost that much, and a few youtube rebuild vids later, it doesn't look too involved to rebuild anyway. i can get the compressor wheel for around a green bill, but of course that doesn't mean the bearing casing isn't worn out.
Would love to drop a cartridge in damn it!
It is annoying to think that there are probably equivalent cartridges that would work, but it's obviously not something that has much demand, hence no market for anyone to bother finding out.
Bring on the 4JB1T/4JH1T I say! turbos for those are going for $380 complete!
Now to investigate the crank case 'cyclonic breather', i think that is actually what is letting all the oil through to the air intake. Do they wear out (the cyclonic breather)?
I would fear that if your making oil into the intake in substantial quantities the problem will lie deeper than a chunk of plastic hanging off the side of the rocker cover.
Valve stem seals at best - them piston ring things at worst
S
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Stem seals are easy to replace in situ, all you need is a valve spring compressor that clamps around the spring, there's no need to add air to the cylinder as long as you have the piston at TDC for the respective pot you're working on.
I had three stem seals floating for god knows how long, as soon as I replaced all the seals there was no more oil consumption (prior to that I'd use around 400-500ml or maybe a touch more /10,000km.
A leakdown test will reveal whether it's rings or not.
Without knowing the full history of this engine, I'd be looking at some other things as well.
As for testing injectors...... if they cause smoke on takeoff due to incorrect spray pattern or breakoff pressure they would generally give the same fault right through the rev/torque range.
Sure the photos of your turbo show contamination/debris damage to the compressor wheel, the tips of the compressor wheel fins show signs of abrasive wear (most likely dusted from the hole in your intake hose). But you say it chugs black smoke on takeoff ?
On takeoff conditions you generally don't have a great deal of boost pressure anyway until the 'lag' is overcome by the gradual build up of the fuel burn process. So a completely shagged turbo shouldn't be a major contributing factor to excess black smoke on takeoff, an inefficient turbo is more likely to give you grief once you are moving along and your right foot is buried on the 'go' pedal but there is an insufficient volume of air in each cylinder to correctly combust with the amount of fuel metered by the pump.
Just about every turbocharged injector pump will have some sort of 'boost control' to limit the amount of fuel delivery until the available boost pressure is able to overcome spring pressure behind a diaphragm and then it will progressively allow more fuel delivery to match the volumetric capacity of air in each cylinder to allow for a clean fuel burn.
It's possible someone has played with your pump and screwed the boost control plunger in to make it deliver more fuel without the presence of boost pressure.
Even on an electronic engine boost control exists in the way of an electronic sensor that changes resistance depending on the boost pressure it's reading. The ecm reads the resistance of this sensor and converts it to a real figure (eg: 10psi), this can be tampered with too by changing the resistance of the sensor so even at idle the ecm will think there is boost there and as soon as you press the go pedal it will deliver more fuel than it should, and the result is a cloud of black smoke until the actual boost pressure rises enough to correctly combust with the amount of fuel being delivered.
thanks onyamatey,
I've previously reset the boost cam back to the factory setting, (there was about 76/7 wear marks on it, so plenty of playing has been done in there!)
On take off it's not really blowing smoke, usually 3rd gear at low revs does it. I can generally get it to a minimum by keeping the revs up or being gentle on the throttle.
It isn't a lot a black smoke, just enough for me to go looking.
I've got the turbo off now.
one off the studs came with it, going to have to search on how to get that back into the manifold,
DSCF8277 (800x597).jpg
definitely the 465171-0002
DSCF8274 (800x597).jpg
another picture of the stud,
DSCF8278 (800x597).jpg
close up of the compressor
DSCF8293 (800x597).jpg
I've found a firm in the UK (http://www.turborebuild.co.uk) that can supply the CHRA For 215 pounds plus 35 pounds freight, just paying for it now and hopefully get the 110 back on the road in the next couple of weeks. Took a while to find someone who will reply to emails actually!
While the turbo is off I'll order up a EGT gauge and fit that too.
been meaning to update this thread for a while.
So, i got it all back together, and was happy. Recently changed the timing belt and mechanic (Dave dover) found it was a notch detuned. Was amazed how much fun it was to drive after, turbo spooling up nicely (always was wondering why it was so quiet, apart form the vibration on boost- now I know)
But it's not a happy ending. the same noise/vibration is back!
to cut to the chase, I know what I did 'wrong'; ignored the advice to replace the feed and return oil lines to the turbo that came on the instructions. thought 'she'll be right', but really should have flushed and changed the oil at least to have that attitude.
i now have to be careful not to push the go pedal to fast to avoid the vibration.
I'm guessing that being so high up on the engine (actually the highest point), they weren't joking that new oil lines were needed.
found something wierd when I did finally flush and pull of the sump to really clean out the old oil; the oil pump pickup cover (mesh grill) actually hits the bottom of the sump! i thought this was really weird considering it effectively halves the area of the pickup grill.
Is it possible someone has put the wrong grill in there? (Does the 300tdi or the old 2.5TD have interchangeable, yet slightly deeper pickup grills?) Seem like a real corker of an oversight to have it designed that way...
Andy
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