Thread: 94 110 clunk from rear every gear change

Originally Posted by rick130

Hell, clunks can come from, and in no particular order;

a) the axle/drive flanges fret and flog out with greased rear wheel bearings.
Converting to oil lubed hubs, (the preferred fix) or regular removal and re-greasing of the axles splines fixes that problem.

b) 'A' frame ball joint worn out.

c) 'A' frame to chassis bushes or pivot bolt worn out.

d) Flogged out mainshaft spline on the input gear in the t/case.
Earlier versions didn't have a cross-drilled input gear and suffered from a lack of lube along the splines.
IIRC this can be accessed from the rear inspection plate on the t/case.

e) Salisbury rear diffs have a fair bit of backlash and can clunk if you're a little sharp with the clutch.

As usual Rick is totally on the money with the Defender dreaded driveline clunk.

Equally as important is the original source of the clunk and the need to nip this in the bud.

The axle to drive flange spline contact is virtually flogging out from day one and while constant greasing of this contact point can put the damage off
it will still eventually flog out especially if you tow or 'work' the vehicle.

Of all the modification you can do to the Defender the conversion to oil lubed hubs combined with uprated axles and drive flanges to the rear cannot be overstated.

If this wear point is eliminated or at least managed from new all the other points in the driveline that eventually contribute to the 'clunk' (as listed by Rick) will have a much longer service life.

While a modified driving style can work around the clunk IMO you shouldn't have to.
My current Defender had this done from new (2002 Xtreme 110) and is still reasonably tight.

I replaced the a frame ball joint a few months ago because the grease rubber had perished but the joint was still serviceable.

Cheers,
Paul.

wow thanks so much folks for all you diagnoses... will get out there and start buggering about with it!

hmm maybe I'm just lazy with mine?

I hardly ever hear the clunk anymore though

as everyone has pointed out there is a multitude of sources of the clunk. Convince a friend to get on his haunches to inspect under the truck while you do the following exercise:

On level ground with handbrake off, release the clutch until it takes up and release it straight away. Don't move off the mark. Like you are rocking the truck. Repeat that 3 to 4 times in succession while your friend inspects each corner of the truck. Focus on the radius arm bushes, trailing arm bushes, prop shaft front and rear, axles flanges ie everything that has been identified. Excess tolerance or the clunk should reveal itself. The A frame may be difficult on this exercise. A thick screw driver under the A frame and a lift to see if there is play will give you an idea of wear.

If you have a few miles on the clock then the LT230 is know to have plenty of play with the CDL open. Your local LR mechanic will be able to put you straight if it is something to worry about. Assuming he is honest and not trying to sell you a rebuild.

If the flanges are flogged out, spend the money and buy maxi-drive or the Ashcroft equivalent. Money well spent in my books. And convert to oil lubricated like Rick130 said.

MLD