Thread: 94 110 clunk from rear every gear change

Hell, clunks can come from, and in no particular order;

a) the axle/drive flanges fret and flog out with greased rear wheel bearings.
Converting to oil lubed hubs, (the preferred fix) or regular removal and re-greasing of the axles splines fixes that problem.

b) 'A' frame ball joint worn out.

c) 'A' frame to chassis bushes or pivot bolt worn out.

d) Flogged out mainshaft spline on the input gear in the t/case.
Earlier versions didn't have a cross-drilled input gear and suffered from a lack of lube along the splines.
IIRC this can be accessed from the rear inspection plate on the t/case.

e) Salisbury rear diffs have a fair bit of backlash and can clunk if you're a little sharp with the clutch.

Shouldn't clunk that bad so I wouldn't just ignore it. I'd start by checking the bushings first. The 'A' frame ball joint is a common culprit and fairly easy to replace. Also trailing arm bushes too. Check what Rick130 has suggested and you'll probably find the problem.

I agree with rick130. If you're getting it from letting out the clutch it could be what rick130 says or you're too quick on the clutch. If it's any of a,b, and c above you'll probably also notice it on the overrun when you're flying along and take your foot off the accelerator. The A frame rick refers to ties the top of the rear diff to the chassis rails to stop it rotating. There is a ball joint up there and its around $60 plus install costs. Easy to do if you can get the old one out. Cheapest option is to buy a ball joint separator thing (forgot what it's called) and do it yourself. You'll still need to use a persuader (hammer) and a bit of grunt.
Easy to check your axle/ drive flanges - take the rubber caps off the axle ends and with the hand brake on, try to rotate the wheel. If you see any excessive movement between the splines of the axle and the drive flange (thing with 5 bolts in it) then you'll need to replace the flanges and the axles. Around $150 for standard LR ones + install costs. Again an easy job if you've seen it done. I've got lots of photos that would help you do it yourself.

All the above but also check the bolts holding the rear drive shaft to both the park brake drum and rear diff, these can work loose and will give you a clunk.

Ian.

my 130 (Salisbury diff) has a clunk as does a friends 110 (rover diff) and we have found with time we have learned to drive our defenders in a way as not to cause the clunk.

I'm not saying don't look for the cause but just remember it's sometimes just a defender thing.

One thing we have noted is when our partners drive our fenders they clunk away with almost every gear change....

Add to the above - apart from driving style, the main cause of a clunk on changing gears is a dragging hand brake.

Also note that any free play in the front axle drive train or axle location system is available to help the clunk, as well as free play in the centre diff (due to wear in the thrust washers).

Generally speaking, however, all these points of lost motion will not cause a clunk except when the handbrake is dragging or when the gear change is particularly inept.

John

Check the "U" bolts on the springs too!


Cheers, Mick.

Originally Posted by mick88

Check the "U" bolts on the springs too!


Cheers, Mick.

Psst, Mick !
They've been fitting coil springs to these things since about '83...