Thread: cooling issues.....again

First up, I feel your pain losing your SOG tool.

I left mine on the tailgate of the 130 once and drove off.....

Haven't replaced it all these years later either, a Leatherman just doesn't do it for me.

Is your temp gauge electric or mechanical ? (I can't remember)
If electric, check all connections and earths.
Just eliminates a potential 'do your head in' potential cause.

I'd swap the t/stat with a new one, as I mentioned on the phone I've had one stuck close, then stick wide open. It does your head in.

To double check the head gasket you can do a combustion gas test.
I've done this before, I borrowed the kit from the local NRMA garage, Rick should have one.
They aren't always conclusive either but it's an indicator.

Originally Posted by manic

What is wrong with these temperatures - they seem normal to me for a tdi -on an 88 stat right?

From what you have written it sounds like the temps got up to 94C before the effects of an open thermostat brought the temps back down - then leveled off at 85-88C as per normal?

Serg is running an 82* (or 78* ?) 'stat.

Originally Posted by manic

What is wrong with these temperatures - they seem normal to me for a tdi -on an 88 stat right?

From what you have written it sounds like the temps got up to 94C before the effects of an open thermostat brought the temps back down - then leveled off at 85-88C as per normal?

Thanks for taking the time to post. All help is helpful in some way. Im running a 82c cracking thermostat. I have a large hole cut in the side of my left hand gaurd (turbo side) I have a engine, radiator and t/stat that are only 15k or so old. Cooling system completely flushed clean and re filled with Tactalloy XTra Gold coolant and distilled water 10k ago when I replaced the main bottom hose due to a weep it had developed from rubbing againts some metal. Having been bitten by cooling issues in the past Im very anal about watching the gauge and have a very good idea of base temps given outside temp, humidity, speed, load etc....so I know where it runs when in good working order and thats why in my first post I said it wasnt normal.

My temp gauge is a VDO and is pretty good when compared to the stock LR item. Rick im pretty sure its electric. I will check.

Again I tried to make things clear in my words here, maybe I havent. The speed at which the gauge rose yesterday and today, under very little to no load, litrerally within 2 minutes of being parked up for 20 minutes or so shows a completely abnormal condition. Also to which the speed in which the gauge dropped from 94-81 today was about as rapid as turning off the ignition.

Ontop of which I had definitely had coolant come out of the expansion tank prior at some point prior to today. Confirmation of this is the evidence of dried hot coolant on it and hoses near/below the expansion tank, and the fact that when I returned what I syphoned out, I was still atleast 1.5lts short of the required level in the system.

I appreciate the fact everyone wants it to be a simple problem or fix, no one more than me wants that......my gut is telling me otherwise.

I will definitely try a new t/stat.

For the price of a thermostat it's worth checking as I agree it could show some crazy symptoms, but to be honest my gut is telling me the same as you Serg.... Bad news. Sorry...

Is a HG something you would do yourself?

Originally Posted by Judo

For the price of a thermostat it's worth checking as I agree it could show some crazy symptoms, but to be honest my gut is telling me the same as you Serg.... Bad news. Sorry...

Is a HG something you would do yourself?

I may do. Problem is I have to order it from the UK....Given there are 3 thicknesses, I will have to either find out the one the mechanic used or strip it down and then order it more time off work

Im about to go for another run, to my work place (if I make it) problem is tomorrow ill have my big heavy trailer in tow as well

Serg,
does the 2.8 still use the ejector valve from rad, tank, thermo.
After my rebuild a blocked ejector caused over heat like yours. Air lock issue at stat housing i suspect?
Didnt even replace, just clened it out with wire.

Also on jc advice, only use a waxstat thermostat.

Steve

Originally Posted by uninformed

I may do. Problem is I have to order it from the UK....Given there are 3 thicknesses, I will have to either find out the one the mechanic used or strip it down and then order it more time off work

Im about to go for another run, to my work place (if I make it) problem is tomorrow ill have my big heavy trailer in tow as well

If the head gasket is marked the same as a Tdi you can tell the thickness as there's an exposed tab at the back RHS of the head with the holes (or lack thereof) in it.

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Serg,
does the 2.8 still use the ejector valve from rad, tank, thermo.
After my rebuild a blocked ejector caused over heat like yours. Air lock issue at stat housing i suspect?
Didnt even replace, just clened it out with wire.

Also on jc advice, only use a waxstat thermostat.

Steve

Good point Steve.
Someone else had the same problem and mentioned it in another thread a few weeks back.

Originally Posted by roverrescue

Serg,
does the 2.8 still use the ejector valve from rad, tank, thermo.
After my rebuild a blocked ejector caused over heat like yours. Air lock issue at stat housing i suspect?
Didnt even replace, just clened it out with wire.

Also on jc advice, only use a waxstat thermostat.

Steve

I have no idea what is the ejector valve?

The reason I went away from waxstat is to get a lower cracking temp. I had the same tridon t/stat in the engine from almost new and just supplied a new one for the rebuild as good practice.