Thread: Puma Pads, discs and clutch

Originally Posted by Loubrey

Cheers Pat!

Two stockists with the same post code as me!

Lou

Hey Lou,

Did you get a quote?

I recieved a reply from the Brisbane office, the pads seem reasonable, regarding discs they are talking about RDA ones not EBC, not sure if there will be much of a difference.

They have asked for clarification on the disc sizes, so I will do that soon, but I think these prices seem ok.

cheers
Pat

Front pads $80.00+ gst
Rear pads $80.00+ gst

With your Front & Rear rotors I have available the new RDA slotted designed rotor which are finished in a gunmetal finish which will stock rust on rotor where pad doesn’t touch surface. These rotors have also been heat treated.

Front rotors $120.00+ gst pair
Rear rotors $120+ gst pair
If you could just clarify the diameter of your rotors to make sure we have the correct numbers

Front diameters

Vented
298mm diameter
70mm Height
24mm Org thickness
22mm Min thickness
101.6mm centre hole
5 Stud

Rear diameters

Solid
298mm Diameters
59mm Height
14mm Org thickness
13mm Min thickness
101.6mm centre hole
5 Stud

Originally Posted by Quigley

Why are discs needing to be replaced?
I did over 700k on my 83 Rangie discs, many sets of geniune pads, and they were still fine.
Are the discs now soft material? Are the pads now too hard? Are the vehicles running in excessive mud and other abrasive stuff?

Your Rangie may have been running the older asbestos based pads, they wore longer. Also I doubt you got that many k's out of the rotors and they were still legal. If you are servicing the Defender your self and you don't care about wear limits on the rotors I'd reckon you would get many 100,000's of ks out of them. Dealers tend to stick to the wear limits and have to report that the discs are worn out. I've got 200,000 on my TD5 and had one set of rotors.

The Rangie also does not have traction control, which in muddy or sandy conditions will flog out pads quite quickly.

The rear pads on the Defender do seem to wear quite quickly on mine, but it depends what I am doing with it. If I'm doing lots of dirt roads, or if I'm relying on the traction control , then the rear pads are gone very quickly. Normal driving and Iv'e got 40,000 easily out of a set.

Hi Pat,

No I've not gotten there yet. My car went for its last free (corporate) warranty service on Monday and I'm in the process of collating a list of suppliers for the various bits going forward.

Having said that, after 3 years and 50,000 km my original pads are still 9 mm in the front and 7 mm on the rear as per the service report.

The disc have in my opinion wore quite a bit though, but the dealer recons the wear is normal. They are smooth in the rotational direction but have very noticeable grooving if you pull your finger across the radius. I'd imagine new pads would have a hard time bedding in on those.

If I can get another 20,000 km odd out of the current set (unless they start wearing fast on the last bit!) I might just end up changing the whole lot like you...

Cheers,

Lou

My front discs had grooving on them as well! The EBC green stuff pads have a bedding in coating that grinds the discs which gets rid of the grooves and now that they are bedded in, the discs are smooth on the nail test.

EBC 6000 Series Brake Pads ' Both Wheels ' - DP6708

Finally ordered front pads and discs from RDA, I have the 6000 greenstuff ones coming, prices have gone up since I last got a quote but not by much.

The front pads are $85 +gst, which I am happy with, I phoned an EBC supplier on the gold coast and they wanted $250 +gst for the front for the same pads.

The front discs have gone up $10 a pair to $130 +gst.

Now I just need to figure out if it is a DIY job or not..

yes Pat give it a crack. It's a great way to get to know the working of the car for when your out and about.

You'll need some drive flange gaskets, lock tight or similar, a hub nut spanner, perhaps some new hub nuts, and new outer oil seals (optional).
The puma run just one nut with some stupid torque to keep it all in place. So I purchased a hub nut tool from Paddocks, $6. Drilled out the breaker bar holes to accommodate my tyre lever, then placed a 1m piece of pipe over the lever for leverage. You will also need someone else to hold the tool on the nut. Cant be done the way described with one person.
Of course a rattle gun with the correct BIG socket will work. It will also make taking the rotors off the hubs easier as well.

Originally Posted by newhue

yes Pat give it a crack. It's a great way to get to know the working of the car for when your out and about.

You'll need some drive flange gaskets, lock tight or similar, a hub nut spanner, perhaps some new hub nuts, and new outer oil seals (optional).
The puma run just one nut with some stupid torque to keep it all in place. So I purchased a hub nut tool from Paddocks, $6. Drilled out the breaker bar holes to accommodate my tyre lever, then placed a 1m piece of pipe over the lever for leverage. You will also need someone else to hold the tool on the nut. Cant be done the way described with one person.
Of course a rattle gun with the correct BIG socket will work. It will also make taking the rotors off the hubs easier as well.

Thanks Jason,

Do you think there is anything else that could be serviced/upgraded while I have the hub in bits? I am on 114k at the moment so not huge mileage.

I have a rattle gun so will need to find a socket

Cheers
Pat

Id just look over the wheel bearing and races. Otherwise "upgraded" can be a long and costly adventure. The idea of running the hubs in oil is not a bad one though.
That would require some new drive flanges and different outer seals.