Thread: Sound Deadening

This was most of it.. There was a lot of dynamat, but i keep running out. All the dynaliner I have is 1/2" and is too thick in some areas. So I ordered another 2 x 1/8" 2 x 1/4" and another dynamat pack.. Oh and a roller - bit late for that now but the hours I have spent rubbing every square inch of it with makeshift shapes.. Never again..

That dynapad is not cheap

Anyone done a before and after with a db meter?

Originally Posted by granno

You will need more than a long weekend unless you know exactly how much you need and have a cutting list - and depending on how insane you want to go.

I am bang smack in the middle of doing my 110 now - I reckon I have spent over $3k easy. I did just the dynamat on the floors with 1 dynamat extreem megapack and stopped when I ran out. Basicly did very little and I also want to stop heat so Am doing it properly or as best as I can. If i remember i will post some pix, doing the LHF door today.

Hang on there. Dynamatt is not a heat insulating material. It is a deadener.

Originally Posted by granno

Oh and do your doors last and use your offcuts. Dynamat isn't a barrier so you just need to cover the resonating metal. The doors are odd shapes and sizes perfect for offcuts

You don't need to "cover" anything with dynamatt. Just patches in the middle of panels to kill the resonance. If you've spent $3k on the stuff then you've wasted about $2,700 of that.

Originally Posted by DeeJay

The last Landie I did the roof & agree!! Next time I will buy a couple of yoga mats from Big W - they are only $12.00 each - about the area of a camp bed- and soft foam about 10mm thick- wont burn either, a much cheaper option.

Camping mats are EVA foam. This is the best insulation layer to go between your deadened panels and the top cover. But the 10mm matts are quite stiff and will only do flat surfaces. You can buy it down to about 3mm thick from industrial suppliers quite cheaply. 3x 3mm layers will give you better sound and heat insulation than 1x 10mm layer.

Then you want heavy rubber or vinyl over the top.

Hmm the dynamat extreme that I put on my floors and firewall significantly reduced the heat from the engine and exhaust. Prior to fitting on a long drive it felt like you were in front of a slow combustion stove. It was so hot that driving up the blue mountains once at night in winter I had to open a window! (heater disconnected)

Post dynamat (all surfaces - see build thread for pics) there is hardly any heat. I know on paper that isn't what its for but I'm talking real world drop of 15+ degrees.

Originally Posted by flagg

Hmm the dynamat extreme that I put on my floors and firewall significantly reduced the heat from the engine and exhaust. Prior to fitting on a long drive it felt like you were in front of a slow combustion stove. It was so hot that driving up the blue mountains once at night in winter I had to open a window! (heater disconnected)

Post dynamat (all surfaces - see build thread for pics) there is hardly any heat. I know on paper that isn't what its for but I'm talking real world drop of 15+ degrees.

A layer of anything (even well conducting gold) will reduce heat through to the cabin.
But using Dynamat for that purpose is like buying goldfish for cat food.

EVA foam is far cheaper and far better. Small patches of a deadener (dynamat if you prefer that brand) and full cover of EVA foam will reduce heat and noise far more for a far lower cost.

Well I got a rush of blood and down loaded a db app on the iPad any how with the iPad sitting on the pasenger seat at idle 52db a quiet room is about 45 db at 100kph its around 63 to 65 db It peaked at 71 db when I realy stood on it in 4th to merge on to a busy road. The vehicle is a 110 tray back 300tdi with just the factory rubber mats and that vinyl crap around the front of the seat box and a gq patrol centre console

Originally Posted by Dougal

Hang on there. Dynamatt is not a heat insulating material. It is a deadener.

Bitumen backed reflective foil (esp on the hot side) is actually very good at keeping heat out. There are cheaper brands than dynamat. Full coverage of bitumen foil is the way to go if you want a very effective block on heat transfer using a thin substrate that will bond for good. You will find it very hard to get the same coverage and bond with camping mat on anything other than floors.

I went around the Med without a headliner and I could burn my fingers to a blister if I touched the inside of the roof after it had sat in the sun. I covered the roof completely with a bitumen backed foil that is thinner than dynamat extreme. Tested in the same conditions I could touch the foil and feel only a vague warmness! Combined with tinted windows, the difference to temperatures inside the car when left in the sun was well worth the £40 it cost for the bitumen sheets (UK)!

[QUOTE=Dougal;1902802]Hang on there. Dynamatt is not a heat insulating material. It is a deadener.

Yep.. Tried the dynamat first and found it next to useless for heat. Then I did a lot of research.....

The rest of the money was for dynaliner for the heat. I also purchased dynapad which was the most expensive out of the lot for the floors/firewall, seat box and gearbox cover. I also used the Hoodliner for the bonnet, and re did my acoustic cover for the motor. Instead of carpet I am using a super high density vinyl in the cab area only. That roll alone was about 30-40 kg.