Thread: Dual Battery Install - 2013 110

Nice install.

FYI, the Land Rover megafuse is just that - a 'mega fuse', and you can buy holders to suit.

Also, the LR fuse holder DOES fit on the Odyssey PC1500 battery.

Just a heads-up for those who come behind...

Thanks for that - I didn't realise the 'megafuse' was an actual standard - I thought it was more a general reference.

Regarding the Odyssey batteries - yes I found that out AFTER I had bought the Optima's

Anyhow - so far I'm happy with the Optima's. Will see how they go over time.

cheers.

Originally Posted by Willow4

Hi all,

I spent most of today installing a dual battery setup in the 110. After a few challenges, I finally got it all done. The basic setup is:

DBS - Traxide SC160
Tray - from Devon4x4
MegaFuse Holder - Blueseas
Accessories fusebox - Narva
Batteries - Optima D34's

(I'm still note sure I'm getting the picture uploads right - so sorry if they are not in the correct order with the comments)

Here is everything laid out ready to start

The first challenge was that the Land Rover 'mega fuse' does not appear to be a standard size like ANL. Therefore I had to extend cut the holes out to slots to make it fit the ANL fuse holder.

I should also explain the only reason I had to change this is because the location of the battery terminal posts on the Optima batteries are further from the battery edge. Therefore the Land Rover 'mega' fuse would not fit. In this picture you can see the difference in size.

Here is the ANL fuse holder and the Traxide SC160 installed.

The white wire here is the dash module for the SC160. It allows you to select various modes - winching, jump start, etc. I have temporarily ran this up and stuck it next to the UHF. However I plan to get one of the factory switches (with built in LED) and convery the dash module to look more factory. Tim (from Traxide) provides detail on how to do this if you dont wish to use his supplied module.

I had posted a picture of the completed install in Blade74's thread and now cant post another copy of it therefore here is the link to the previous post - post #12: Second Battery choice

cheers,

Wayne

True to your word mate, this is well done.
Looking forward doing this to my def 110.
Cheers

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

Hey Willow. Top job mate.

Looking at the tray it looks like you couldn't use the original land rover battery if you wanted to as its closer to 320mm long.
Guessing it means you are required to buy two new batteries as you have done?
Are the D34's ok as dual purpose cranking/deep cycle batteries?

Hi Blade,

correct - you can't use the original LR battery with the Devon4x4 tray. It is built perfectly for Optima D34's or the equivalent Odyssey.

This is the first time I have used the Optima's and I have heard mixed reviews. But from what I can gather, their success depends a lot on the battery charging system. After speaking to Tim (Traxide) I'm confident this system should be fine. As a dual purpose battery (crank and deep cycle) I understand them to be excellent.

I'm hoping to finish the install next weekend. Installing the fuse box (for accessories) and running cabling to the rear of the cab.

Optimas don't like heat either - so they're perfect for an underseat install.

Shouldn't the leads that run to the dual battery controller have a circuit breaker in them? Also conduit on all the positive leads is wise yes?

Just thought I would add the last part of the install.

I finally got the time to run the power cables from the battery to the rear of the Defender, install an Anderson plug on the rear bar and install a power board in the back for accessories/fridge.

First I installed a 50amp circuit breaker in the battery area and then ran the heavy duty cables Tim (Traxide) provided to the rear of the car (all connections to the aux battery are made via this circuit breaker).

As it takes a bit of effort to run the cables to the rear, I included an additional 4 15amp wires in the conduit for future use. Possible rear work lamps, etc (when funds allow). See below.

4.Wiring _oom.jpg

I ran the cables in parallel to the factory wiring loom that runs along the left hand side chassis. Also adding heat reflective foil as per the factory loom where it runs close to the muffler. Sorry - I was a bit slack and did not take any photo's of this work

Here is a photo of some of the various components.
2.Components.jpg

Here is the 'power board' case prior to fitting any sockets, etc.
1.Case.jpg

And here is the electronic gauge. It has the following features:
- 30 amp
- voltage (volts)
- current (amps)
- power (watts)
- amp/hours
- and a few other things
3.Gauge.jpg