Thread: Its Arrived!

Originally Posted by Tombie

And what did you ask for?

The query. Maybe I was being unrealistic. I often read hear how great it improves things but with little detail. So I was just putting it out there.

Hi,
I have a 2010 Defender 130. It's my work truck which constantly
carries 300kg to 600kg daily. We go 4x4 camping 2 to 3 times a month,
which is around 750kg full load. I live in Australia. I have a Mac
computer, but it does have fusion software for MS programs.

I'm interested in a remap, however I'm not not interested in
upgrading the exhaust, intercooler, or adding an EGT over time. I am
no racer.

My car still has warranty, I was told by the dealer they can see if
the ECU has been modified. Can you guarantee a remap can be changed
back to standard and be untraceable by Land Rover for servicing. If so
do I need more stuff or just my computer?

My requirements in a tune are:

1. engine longevity, I would like to see 400K+ out of it, maybe I'm
dreaming, but I service it as it's scheduled. I know you can't guarantee
this but you get the drift. Furthermore I am happy to take your advice on EGR
disablement, perhaps read what I require and make the call.
2. reasonable boost from 1000rpm
3. more economy and torque at 110klm. It seems to become quite
thirsty after 105klm, and cruising in 6th with a load sees me dropping
back to 5th on undulating hills when it probably shouldn't.
4. I currently run 31" standard tyres. I will be changing to 33". At
present I can control the revs in 2nd low from 1250 to 2000rpm up
steep terrain and maintain traction without spinning wheels and carry on.
I fear by upsizing to 33" tyre I will have to work in 1650 to 2500rpm
range, or the vehicle just becomes unresponsive with the larger tyres. I
would like the torque to work at the old revs if possible.
5. As little smoke as possible. It doesn't have to go like a shower
of ****, but a bit of get up and go would be nice.

The reply, from Bell. I appreciate his honesty. Alive never responded.

Hi

We can offer the remap that can be suited to a non other modifyed car no problem. what the tool reads out from the car is put back when returning it to original for dealer visits. Some remaining fault codes in the instrument pack could indicate to a dealer that the engine ecu has at some point lost communication with the engine ecu. (while programming this fault shows) but in some cases remains afterwards.

To clear 100% car faults in the instrument pack to guarantee no left over codes are present in this instance would need full car level diagnostic tools, like the BBS faultmate FCR or Nanocom etc etc.

I dont run a Mac but im told if bootcamp or similar is used running windows 32bit software the software works perfectly.

I personally think 248k miles is a little optimistic on the standard service schedule and to try for this i think it should be cut in half at lest for its oil changes.

power will start at the same point is already does arround 1800-2000 rpm but could be a little sooner depending on temperatures and load etc. to make it start hard at 1000 rpm is not possibile as the engine does not produce enough gas at this speed to spin the turbo fully.

Economy will remain around the same if driven correctly but as you have seen anything about 65-70mph will make the engine work harder and use more fuel. this is a characteristic of the car and the way its geared which wont change much.

Disabling the egr is possibile on most software versions with no problem and i would do this as a matter of course on all tuning along with the speed limiter removed.

Changing the tyres for a larger tyre will for sure create more lag lower down when driving the car and i personally advise you stick to the correct ratio tyres/gearing.

A couple of days in to the tune and I really do love it.

The best way I can describe it is when you drive a Puma for the first time coming from a TD5. You get the "I wonder if I can wing it and stay in this gear" Thought process driving through traffic. You can! It is just smooth factory torque. You don't drive around thinking "This thing is re-tuned", Its just how it should be. Granted I did not ask for an all out power tune.

A couple of other things Ive noticed are - It starts a little bit easier. Cranks over twice then fires up, as apposed to three times.

It seems to stay on boost/revs longer after you take your foot of the accelerator in between gear changes greatly reducing drive line backlash clunks.

Hard to say with fuel economy yet. It hasn't moved off full :P Though I do drive like an old man so I suspect no change or an improvement.

EGR silence is bliss!

I really cant wait to take it through the mountains both off road and on road.

Edit - Smoke - I never really bothered to take notice of smoke in standard form so I suspect it was very little. If I really look for it I see a tiny bit. Still less then my MY12 Mazda Bt50.