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Thread: Melting Mudflap.

  1. #21
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    I've had mine replaced twice. That said, the current ones have probably done 30,000 km including may long trips at highway speeds, and no melting! The 'rubber' compound has either changed or changes from batch to batch. No problem getting them replaced by the dealer under warranty.

    Cheers
    KarlB

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by debruiser View Post

    As for dragging the rear end in and out of holes... I have dragged my tow ball a few times but never caught anything else; well not that I know of anyway. The last time was on a well traversed track. What I want to know is: if a D90 drags it's tow ball on the way through how was the track made and who uses it?????
    Over here in WA the orange gravel washes out in deep erosion ruts and when you traverse them diagonally you sometimes get a bit cross axled and one of the rear corners tend to drag a bit, thus catching the mudflap. This is done nice and slowly, but most people out this side tend to loose the odd mudflap.

    Add to this idiots with massive wheels spinning big holes in tracks, the short wheel base is often even a slight handicap as the 110's and 130's don't seem to suffer the same way by bridging the cross axle areas.

    As stated before, my 90 is my daily drive and I certainly do not intentionally or recklessly put the car in damaging positions. However, if you are unwilling to drive on the orange or red gravel there is very little other than sand driving to do in WA...

    Cheers,

    Lou

  3. #23
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    Question

    I was thinking that maybe there would be a heatproof "coating" that would work on rubber, that could be placed around the mudflap exhaust cutout? Is there a "paint" that could achieve this purpose, or alternatively is there a black coloured heatproof tape that would adhere to the rubber in the appropriate area?
    Just looking for an easy "fix"?
    Pickles.

  4. #24
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    No "Developments" with this issue?
    We're now up to 23,000ks, & the left rear mudflap is "still there", but definitely showing signs of heat around the mudflap cutout, and the mudflap itself has "warped" in this area!!
    Pickles.

  5. #25
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    Have you thought about stuff like this?
    Automotive | Heatshield Products
    Either a tape or sock to reduce the heat from the pipe, or maybe a small tip on the end of the pipe to extend gases away.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by frantic View Post
    Have you thought about stuff like this?
    Automotive | Heatshield Products
    Either a tape or sock to reduce the heat from the pipe, or maybe a small tip on the end of the pipe to extend gases away.
    Mate, that is a GREAT site.
    There probably would be something there to use that would do the job, but knowing which product, and how to attach it properly to the mudflap would be an issue....for me anyway!!...It would be a matter of attaching a product around the mudflap exhaust cutout, particularly along the "edge" of the cutout, which is where the exhaust gas hits it!
    But others may have a look at that site, & come up with a product solution??
    Thanks, Pickles.

  7. #27
    s7oney Guest
    U can buy universal heat sheild material from repco. Hose clamp it to the tail pipe near the mudflap ( use small pieces lift it off the pipe and leave an air gap between the sheild and mudflap

    Sent from my GT-I9506 using AULRO mobile app

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by s7oney View Post
    U can buy universal heat sheild material from repco. Hose clamp it to the tail pipe near the mudflap ( use small pieces lift it off the pipe and leave an air gap between the sheild and mudflap

    Sent from my GT-I9506 using AULRO mobile app


    Hmmmm, I think that might look slightly crap

  9. #29
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    Yes, I think so, BUT, some of that material fixed to the inside of the flap with some of it along the cutout edge, could work?
    I wonder how it would attach to the rubber? Pickles.

  10. #30
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    I might be late to the party, but my understanding was that the flow of hot exhaust gases into the mudflap was the cause of the problem... not the mud flap touching the exhaust pipe proper. In other words, heat shields on the pipe itself is not a viable solution.

    I've got a brand spankin' pair of flaps to put on my 90, but sitting tight until I can work out a way to make it work long term.

    Anyone involved in HSE / OHS would have heard of the heirarchy of control. Basically the order of operations for solving a problem (in the health and safety sphere at least). Same principles apply with other problems too


    The key would be to eliminate the cause of the problem to begin with- relocate the exhaust pipe to a side outlet, or remove the mud flap. There may be legal reasons / issues with this, and not really practical - a car cannot run without an exhaust pipe, for example.
    Then you could substitute - consider a different mud flap material perhaps?
    Engineering controls like heat shields are the next step, keeping hot gases away from the burnie stuff .

    As for attaching to the mud flap... probably just some chichago screws
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

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