Thread: Changing headlights

Mate, go to bunnings and buy a phillips head screwdriver,

the time it took you to buy that screwdriver is about twice as long it will take you to change a headlight on a Defender.


have a go its not hard, you cant break anything.

7 inch head light should only cost $20-$30
at burson
very easy to do
cheers

Originally Posted by hans

7 inch head light should only cost $20-$30
at burson
very easy to do
cheers

a 2013 Defender doesn't use a sealed beam.... LH light part number is STC1209 - I just got one for $48ish... + postage. Havn't tried to install it yet because the MRS stole my car this arvo and she's not back yet.

300 for a head light change. Wow I'm not charging enough

Ok I did it this morning, took me MAYBE 10minutes at the worst.... only tool you need is a No2 phillips screwdriver.

step 1 - unscrew the 2 screws that hold that plastic bit on around the headlight
Step 2 - unscrew the side lights
step 3 - unscrew the 4 little screws that hold that metal ring on, light falls out!
step 4 - remove glob from old light - insert in new (with the rubber water thingo)
Step 5 - put it all back the way you found it!
Step 6 - DONE! drink some beer

before you follow step 3 of debruiser's instructions check what i'm about to write first. Your metal ring should be held on by a 1 or 2 retention screws and 2 adjustment screws. The adjustment screws on mine at at 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock. You will know which they are by the notch in the face plate that gives access for a screw driver to adjust while assembled. If you only remove the retention screws you won't mess with the adjustment. If your adjustment screws are like mine (TD5) the mount on the metal ring slides over a notch in the screw to hold it in place. If you remove the adjustment screws you will have to find a dark road and fiddle with the adjustment so not to blind oncoming traffic or illuminate the ground and nothing in front of that.

You might find the act of removing the glass from the metal ring messes with the adjustment but certainly less so that if you remove the screw.

I recently paid $100 delivered for a pair of sealed lights.

First headlight 30 min with stuffing around taking all the screws out, head scratching and replacing the adjustment screws while muttering to myself.
second headlight 5 min with time to stop for swig of beer.

Put the saved $200 to a new toy for the truck.

MLD

Originally Posted by MLD

before you follow step 3 of debruiser's instructions check what i'm about to write first. Your metal ring should be held on by a 1 or 2 retention screws and 2 adjustment screws. The adjustment screws on mine at at 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock. You will know which they are by the notch in the face plate that gives access for a screw driver to adjust while assembled. If you only remove the retention screws you won't mess with the adjustment. If your adjustment screws are like mine (TD5) the mount on the metal ring slides over a notch in the screw to hold it in place. If you remove the adjustment screws you will have to find a dark road and fiddle with the adjustment so not to blind oncoming traffic or illuminate the ground and nothing in front of that.

You might find the act of removing the glass from the metal ring messes with the adjustment but certainly less so that if you remove the screw.

I recently paid $100 delivered for a pair of sealed lights.

First headlight 30 min with stuffing around taking all the screws out, head scratching and replacing the adjustment screws while muttering to myself.
second headlight 5 min with time to stop for swig of beer.

Put the saved $200 to a new toy for the truck.

MLD

What he said

I did actually take out the 2 adjustment screws - located 9:00 and 3:00... took out the assembly.... wasn't necessary but did make the removal of the 4 retaining screws VERY easy because it could be done on the bench... next time I'll do it insitu. Didn't touch the verticle adjustment screw - 6:00 on my vehicle.

BTW, on that topic, why are the "access" bits on the cover/pretty bit around the headlight not aligned with where the adjustment screws are!!!! seems a bit silly to me... or is this a throwback to some previous setup that LR have forgotten to fix when changing to a new headlight setup?