when I had similar issues, it turned out to be a faulty relay although I have no idea if its a standard fitment. Mine was located near the fuses under the dash
Hi Tonic,
I'm not sure, do the Defender 300Tdi's have the "spider" anti theft unit that the Discovery D1's have? The symptoms sound very similar to the problem I have on my old Discovery, there is a bypass kit you can buy to take the "spider" out of the loop. Not sure if this is any help.
when I had similar issues, it turned out to be a faulty relay although I have no idea if its a standard fitment. Mine was located near the fuses under the dash
98 Harvey the tractor - 300 tdi Defender Wagon
84 Alfetta GTV
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
						Mine has a relay at the fuse panel as well.
If replacing double check the relay pin numbers as there are 2 types of relays available and the pins are wired differently.
Wrong relay will melt the earth wire in the harness.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
Thanks everyone
Based on the advise from the majority, while out and about today I bought a new test light.
Once home from work I put SHMBO in the drivers seat to twist the key. Yep, power at the starter on both sides, so solenoid.
Anyone got a new starter they do want
98 Defender 110 tdi Boomer
Mate, check for a decent earth off the starter motor, Steph's old 300tdi D1 did the same thing and all I did was run a new earth strap from the battery to the starter motor and never missed a beat after that.
Cheers Ian
1964, S2a SWB "Ralph"
1977, S3 SWB "Smeg" (Gone)
1996 D1 300tdi auto (Gone)
1973 Rangie Classic (Gone)
2012, 110 (Series 12) Puma "The Tardis"
1962 109" Tray Back "Ernie"
1998 D1 300tdi (Dizzy)
2017 Kawasaki Versys 1000
You must now cut down the tallest tree in the forest... With... A HERRING!!!!!
Take off the small spade fitting on the solenoid and using a test light see if you get power at the spade on the wire this is the siginal from the key to pull the solenoid if you have power there then its the solenoid .
If no power then using another wire that is live with ignition off touch live wire on spade terminal on solenoid if it cranks you know solenoid and starter are good its the power coming from the ignition that has the problem so maby a relay or simple fuse .
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