Hi Green Elephant,
How do you now find the on road handling?
Cant comment on the clunk...
Cheers
Hi guys
Well I removed the front sway bar (rear is still on because it has the structural integrity of a pool noodle).
The increased articulation and reduced engagement of Traction Control is very pleasing!
However when the front wheel eventually manages to lift off the ground, I am presented with a large clunk. No bad noised at any other time.
I cant see any obvious wear marks where something is fouling, would the spring retainers cause this? Any ideas?
Cheers!
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi Green Elephant,
How do you now find the on road handling?
Cant comment on the clunk...
Cheers
Onroad handling is not too bad really. A change of direction between 10 oclock and 2 oclock (or 45 degree change in direction if you like) is barely noticeable in body roll increase, but you do notice it a bit more body roll on say a 90 degree turn. On the flip side, it doesnt have the jerky characteristic like you are being pulled into a pot hole or undulation either. For example if you are driving in a left lane that also has man hole covers or water drains, you dont feel the chassis being "pulled" down, rather the wheel extends to meet the change and the chassis remains much flatter.
So there are good and bad changes from the removal. As a whole though I am very happy and would not consider going back... Unless this clunk forces me to
I trust your not binding one of the front UJs when it goes clunk?
Standard ones run close to the limit in terms of operating angle.
J
Sent using Forum Runner
Regards,
Jon
ditto to the above, the front shaft in puma's is known to bind in high articulation situations and/or with a lift. . . there are a few threads on the forum about replacement shafts to remedy the situation.
Leroy
My guess is the radius rod bush bolts are loose. Taking into account that EVERY Puma Defender I have serviced has had loose suspension and sway bar bolts, this is a good place to start...
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberDitto to above thought, radius arm bolts I had this after being a bit tight and reusing the bolts after changing the bushes it took me ages to track down! lesson learnt at least change the nylock nuts!!
Worth a look!
the radius rod bolts have to be TIGHT, and done when vehicle is at resting height, best done on a ramp hoist with a bar and a pipe....
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberI wonder if anyone has confirmed if removing a sway bar on a Defender makes it unroadworthy, could this void insurance? I know though that some defenders had no sway bars, so I guess that makes it an option, so perhaps this is OK?
I hate rules
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