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Thread: Steering right = bite

  1. #1
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    Steering right = bite

    When steering to the right, say up a motorway on ramp it is hard to hold a smooth arc. I'm constantly having to back off the wheel a fraction and re-apply because the wheels seem to 'dig in' and turn me further to the right. Not smooth at all. I'm not sure if I'm describing it well enough.

    All the track rod ends are new, steering drop arm also. It doesn't do it turning left so I'm guessing swivel pre-load on one of the wheels needs adjusting or bearings maybe?

  2. #2
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    Could be as simple as wheel alignment. I had a 100 series cruiser that would do this as weight transferred from one side to the other it would change the arc of the turn due to the mis-alignment of one wheel compared to the other.

  3. #3
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    I had the wheels properly aligned just recently after doing the TRE's. It was done on one of those fancy computerised sensor set ups. Shortly after that the drop arm was replaced. I was hoping a new drop arm would not effect alignment as all the rod lengths are unchanged, but perhaps it has.

  4. #4
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    Do you have a lift? If so, what was the caster value on the wheel alignment? - IME zero or negative caster can cause the car to be a bit twitchy in corners or when changing over the crown of the road. Usually its similar both left and right though and a vague in a straight line until you start to change direction.

    Also, what was the toe setting on the wheel alignment? Just because its a fancy machine doesn't mean its going to be right if the settings in it are correct.

    Have you jacked up the front end and had a good wriggle on the wheels to check for loose wheel bearings and swivels etc?

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  5. #5
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    Yes a +2 spring lift. The arms are castor corrected. The alignment was +1 toe out. All new bushes also.

    I'll give the wheels a good jigglin next time I'm in there but they were in good health after I changed the swivel seals a few months back.

    I can do swivel oil, re-grease bearings, reset pre-load and then check the alignment again. So long as its not the steering box.

  6. #6
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    Start disconnecting ball joints until you find it, maybe worth checking steering damper too.

  7. #7
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    Have you checked the steering rod knuckles (not sure of correct description) joints?, had a similar problem previously that turned a worn knuckle that only worked in one direction causing the steering grab when turning in one direction
    When turning the steering wheel while someone watched the steering rod knuckles it was very obvious

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Also check for free play in any of the links locating either front or rear axles, and for binding of the universals on the steering column.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #9
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    Do the tyres you're running have chunky bits on the sides? Is there any rubbing marks on the tyres, and on the trailing arms where they would hit on full lock?

    I had a light-bulb moment when this started happening to me on a road trip, and it was only when I spotted this that I worked out that one of the bolts I'd removed to take off the (just broken) front disc brake shroud was the one that limited turning lock.

  10. #10
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    sounds like too much toe out.........does the steering self centre after a U-turn.....?


    you dont need fancy aligners to set the wheel alignment on a defender......you can use a bit of string....or a piece of dowel....or tape measure.....
    measure from the edge of the rim to the edge of the opposite rim in front and behind the diff......


    the new components may have settled and changed the alignment......

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