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Thread: Replacing Brake discs on Defender and I am stuck.

  1. #1
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    Replacing Brake discs on Defender and I am stuck.

    I am in the middle of doing the front brake discs and pads on my 2009 defender, it has taking me 1.5 hours to get the caliper off and the drive flange and now I am stuck. I bought a 52mm impact socket but it is not deep enough by about 5mm, I also have a big plumbers wrench but it wont get in to the hub to get a grip.

    I see today as a write off but I don't want to put it all back together so does anyone know where on the Gold Coast or surrounding areas I will find a 52mm deep hub socket or box spanner tomorrow?

    I am leaving for Cooktown on Friday so I need to get it back together and can't wait for anything to come from Ebay.

    Alternatively, how viable is it just replacing the pads and leaving the discs on, they have about a 2mm ridge on them, they look like they have plenty of meat on them, and the pads have a coating to resurface the disc.

    Also when I took the flange off there is a fair bit of metal grit in there. Is this normal? Also should I use anything in particular to clean this off before I re-grease it?

    thanks
    Pat






  2. #2
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    You can use a hammer and chisel to get the hub nuts off, I think I read you are changing over the the double nut set up..can you get a pair of multigrips in there......

    I'm sure there would be plenty of members with a hub nut spammer on the coast.....I assume you could buy one from Ricks should only be $10/$15, handy to have in the car

  3. #3
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    Drive up to my place and I can give you a hand.....

    You could probably get away with just changing the pads.....if you get the hub off I would wash the old grease out and have a good look at the bearings.....

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    You can use a hammer and chisel to get the hub nuts off, I think I read you are changing over the the double nut set up..can you get a pair of multigrips in there......

    I'm sure there would be plenty of members with a hub nut spammer on the coast.....I assume you could buy one from Ricks should only be $10/$15, handy to have in the car
    Hey weeds.
    I was going to change to the double nut, but I would not have got the kit in time so I figured I would just put the single back on, this is what happens when you rush things!! I will give Ricks a call in the morning to see if he has one, that's a good idea never thought of him supplying tools. I was hoping to get the socket on then I can get the torque right. Alternatively I might see if he can fit it in this week, but then I have to put it together.

    A new lesson there for me, never start jobs on a Sunday unless you are 100% you have the tools.

  5. #5
    sheerluck Guest
    Pat,

    If you just want to borrow a 52mm box spanner, I've got one. I'm not too far from the GC.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheerluck View Post
    Pat,

    If you just want to borrow a 52mm box spanner, I've got one. I'm not too far from the GC.
    Thanks Dave, I might be in touch in the next couple of days, the wife has noticed I am not at the car working and has now decided I can continue tomorrow and take the pram and the dog for a walk with her instead. Should have taken my laptop out to the car..

    I will take the parts list down to LR tomorrow as well and see if I can get the nuts to change to the double nuts, then I can use a box spanner and not worry about the torque.

    Thanks for the offer, appreciate it.

    Pat.

  7. #7
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    Those splines are fretting/dry corroding, so use plenty of grease on them at reassembly if you aren't converting to oil lubed hubs, and pop the drive flanges off every 20-30,000km and re-grease.

    Use an RTC3511 hub seal instead of whatever Land Rover use now too, it eliminates drawing in moisture, particularly during creek/river crossings, but even just drawing in moisture generally.

    I think I'm the only person in existence that still uses the genuine paper drive flange gaskets but they're cheap as chips and make things simple and clean on servicing.

  8. #8
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    ...........I think I'm the only person in existence that still uses the genuine paper drive flange gaskets but they're cheap as chips and make things simple and clean on servicing.
    No, there's two of us

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Those splines are fretting/dry corroding, so use plenty of grease on them at reassembly if you aren't converting to oil lubed hubs, and pop the drive flanges off every 20-30,000km and re-grease.

    Use an RTC3511 hub seal instead of whatever Land Rover use now too, it eliminates drawing in moisture, particularly during creek/river crossings, but even just drawing in moisture generally.

    I think I'm the only person in existence that still uses the genuine paper drive flange gaskets but they're cheap as chips and make things simple and clean on servicing.
    Thanks Rick, I will add the seals to my list for tomorrow. I actually picked up 2 of the paper gaskets yesterday from LR, your right, they are cheap about $2.70 each I think.

    For the grease on the splines, is the bearing grease OK for that or is there any particular flavor I need?

    cheers
    Pat.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Bearing grease is fine.

    In an ideal world an extreme EP/moly/lubricating solids fortified grease would be ideal but no one including moi does that, and I have some pretty trick greases on tap (but I do run oil lubed hubs in the rear too. Oil lubrication dramatically reduces bearing adjustments when running on rough roads too)

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