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Thread: Opinion on the Defender 130 TD5 - buy or avoid?

  1. #21
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    Vlad the TD5 is not common rail it has unitary injectors that can be replaced for $300 each that's a total of $1500.
    It has a pump in the tank that in my book is a service item at around 150K you can buy genuine in the UK for about $500.
    Not sure what it costs to do a pump and injectors on a 300TDI as I have never owned one. They are a simple engine really being not much more difficult to work on than a 300TDI.

  2. #22
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    AH OK I did not know that - I thought they were $1500 EACH ! That's a but better.

    My overwhelming concern was the issues that have been seen with the plastic plugs and heads. I've heard a lot of horror stories...
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  3. #23
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    Vlad the $300 is the price you can buy them from Paddocks in the UK Being Paddocks it will take a while but you will get them in time I agree with the plastic dowel issue but if you don't have a corrosion or overheating issue its not a huge expense

  4. #24
    schuy1 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by VladTepes View Post
    AH OK I did not know that - I thought they were $1500 EACH ! That's a but better.

    My overwhelming concern was the issues that have been seen with the plastic plugs and heads. I've heard a lot of horror stories...

    And that is just it, We hear the horror stories and rarely the good side. Its a bit like the saying, "Good news never sold a newspaper! " The TD5's injectors appear to be quite robust, rarely have I heard of any1 having to replace them all in 1 go! And the unitary injectors are actually a Detroit Diesel design!
    I have a 110 ute 300TDi and now a TD5 discovery and really they are a muchness of a muchness to work on! Overheat the TDi and its a new head same as for the TD5 I think the extra oompf and drivability of the TD5 is great. Wouldnt worry me to get 1 in a defender.

    Cheers Scott

  5. #25
    VladTepes's Avatar
    VladTepes is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Subscriber
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    Can people give me a list of the major things I need to check / be sure of in regard to teh service history?

    What things should have been done (assume a high kms vehicle) ?
    It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".


    gone


    1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
    1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
    1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
    1996 Discovery 1

    current

    1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400


  6. #26
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    Cooling system should probably be the biggest concern.
    Check for correct coolant, any stains, expansion tank level although this can vary and still be perfectly fine.
    Oil Pump bolt, unless that's a D2 specific thing, not really sure.
    Good service history, general tidiness, etc.
    Someone more knowledgeable than I will be along shortly.
    The Phantom - Oslo Blue 2001 Td5 SE.
    Half dead but will live again!

    Nina - Chawton White 2003 Td5 S
    Slowly being improved

    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post
    You worry me sometimes Muppet!!


  7. #27
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    I would highly recommend one. But then again I havent worked on, or driven a tdi or Puma.
    I think it should come down to what tools you already have first, then what the vehicle will be used for second. You already have tdi gear, or would you rather the extra power from the 5th cyl?

    Oil in the loom
    coolant would be a big one as above. Look for floaties/oils etc in the tank
    Remove the exhaust manifold heat shroud if fitted and look for diesel soot on the head. Particularly around the front and rear of the manifold, indicating broken studs. Easy fix though. Listen for a horrible whistle on boost (although may not always occur even if one is broken)
    Remove the turbo intake and gently wobble the spindle with a finger. Shouldnt be nil or not too much play, Look for scratches in the housing.
    Look for diesel seepage on the rear drivers side of the block - the fuel reg has 2 or 4 (sorry cant remember) fuel lines going to it. Might need to remove the acoustic cover to see- 3 bolts
    Squeeze turbo hoses - should be rubbery and flexi
    Blacklash in the transmission

    As with any engine you buy:
    Coolant seepage from expansion tank lid
    water pump leaks
    dust/debris after the intake filter
    Oil condition, smell
    General tidyness

    Things that should have been done (mines at 220, this is my list)
    Fuel pump as above
    idler + tensioner pulleys
    belt

    Things I will be doing shortly:
    water pump, coolant/heater pipes etc
    Head gasket (this is the big one )

    But the most important thing here - Have fun

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