Thread: fitting a Cross hydraulic pump to a 130 TD5

Mine had a hand throttle on it when I got it. It was simply connected so it pulled on the pedal.

Cheers, Mick.

Yeah would be a simple matter to fit a hand throttle cable to the accelerator pedal, but re-reading the question I agree it would not solve the problem of RPM drop under load. Must be a single-stage hydraulic pump? Dedicated log-splitter hydraulics usually use a two-stage pump so you get quick ram movement under light load then full power under heavy load. A td5 running at 2500RPM would be many times more powerful than your average log splitter! Interfacing with the electronics of the existing cruise control sounds like quite a task. What about a second, older style aftermarket cruise control with magnetic pickup on your crankshaft pulley and actuator linked to the accelerator pedal?
Other possibilities I can think of- (1) a bigger diameter ram, or (2) smaller diameter logs

If its a fly by wire accelerator then perhaps you could get a 2nd accelerator, rip the pot out of it, make an extension cable and create a hand throttle that was at the log splitter.

You just need to remember to plug the accelerator back in when you head home.

or you could use a cable pull on an extension rod and run a manual pedal over at the work station. that way you can idle it when you dont need the high flow hydraulics and you an premempt the load up.

The other thing this lets you do is fit a bypss cooler on a divert valve so if you've got the engine siting on idle (use a micro on the remote pedal ) then the hyd fluid is cooled at idle speed and the pump is unloaded, good for the life of the fluid, the pump and the lines.

Originally Posted by Dorian

If its a fly by wire accelerator then perhaps you could get a 2nd accelerator, rip the pot out of it, make an extension cable and create a hand throttle that was at the log splitter.

You just need to remember to plug the accelerator back in when you head home.

Hi Dorian

You don't need to have an additional throttle if you can trick the cruise control to think the vehicle is moving. If you have a secondary speed sensor on the crank or somewhere else, you use the regular pedal to get the engine up to revs and then set cruise. after that its the + or - to increase or decrease revs and the brake pedal or cancel button to cancel the cruise/engine revs.

Originally Posted by Dorian

If its a fly by wire accelerator then perhaps you could get a 2nd accelerator, rip the pot out of it, make an extension cable and create a hand throttle that was at the log splitter.

You just need to remember to plug the accelerator back in when you head home.

We did something like this on a 2.4 tdci defender for a customer with one leg, converted to auto, removed clutch pedal and fitted a second throttle pedal and a switch on the dash so you could select which pedal was required so his able bodied wife could drive it easily and used 6 micro relays to switch between them, you could do the same with a switch to activate a throttle on the splitter which can be plugged in externally,

Dave

Some good suggestions guys thanks.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

or you could use a cable pull on an extension rod and run a manual pedal over at the work station. that way you can idle it when you dont need the high flow hydraulics and you an premempt the load up.

The other thing this lets you do is fit a bypss cooler on a divert valve so if you've got the engine siting on idle (use a micro on the remote pedal ) then the hyd fluid is cooled at idle speed and the pump is unloaded, good for the life of the fluid, the pump and the lines.

Dave has it right, when there is no load or work being done the engine RPM's should be allowed to be throttled back to slow the oil flow down, this would allow the slower moving oil time to cool down using a good sized oil cooler in the return line, that should then get rid of most of the heat before it dumps back into the oil tank.

My thought's on the extra pedal potentiometer that if you measure the pot' for it's maximum resistance a suitable pot', it could be brought from a electronics store, ( there are two types of pots with two types of responses: Logarithmic, used mainly for audio work and linear, I haven't measured a TD5 pot' but I am sure a linear would be the type to get.) The whole wiring to both relays could be then wired up with a DPDT relay with the NC contacts used for road work and when the relay is energised the NO contacts are closed to allow the remote pot' to be used.

As for using the speed sensor control ( cruise control ) to be used as a engine RPM governor I would fit it in the housing for the PTO.
Count the perforations in the hub that the wheel sensor works with and divide that number by three ( diff ratio 3.5 ) and arrange a wheel with that many holes / slots for the PTO speed sensor to work to. Another setup that may be adapted is here. arduino - How do I measure the RPM of a wheel? - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange


Design the whole PTO, Pump hookup so when the Land rover gearbox is used, it's 1:1 ( in top gear ) that would negate any heat issues with the Land Rover's gearbox when the system is under load. Doing this the PTO would then need it's own reduction to match the RPM of the Engine at it's peak torque to the optimum working RPM of the hydraulic pump. Don't worry about any oil feed issues in the Land Rover gearbox or transferbox as the decoupled indirect gear sets are still spinning and picking up their lubricate.

When ploughing a farm tractor is set up by the correct gear selection, so when it's working it's engine constantly at a RPM above it's peak torque RPM, when a brief overload is encountered the tractor engine RPM drops back to where it's peak torque is developed. The Farmers word for this is called lugging.
For hydraulic work such as using a front end loader, the tractor engine RPM is set at a speed about a mid torque range and increased to peak torque RPM when a load is anticipated.
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