Thread: fitting a Cross hydraulic pump to a 130 TD5

do it the easy way if thats how you're going to go.

use a throttle wedge to set the no load speed (high idle) above your desired full load speed. (adjust this with the hydraulic load stalled and everything dumping back out the pressure relief valve) once you have if fully loaded up and at the rpms you want full load stall to be at unload it and the increase in speed is your lugging factor.

from there you throttle the hydraulics on a diverter valve.

theres a couple of options on how you can then set that to have a go/no go setting for low and high idle speeds a simple pnuematic ram ot an electric solenoid with a dampner (if you want to get fancy) or a pilot fed hydraulic ram.... (tie it to pressure so that as the pressure drops off spring pressure ramps the pedal position.

Just some added info...
We have a hydraulic pump fitted to the transfer case on our TD5 Defender that drives a hydraulic driven Kevrek crane (as the electric any brand cranes are next to useless). We also have it driving the front hydraulic winch. Both units using on engine idle are HUGE torque and we recently well overloading the crane so much that it bent the mounting on the tray rather than damage the crane or pull the engine revs down.

But still im looking at a "hand throttle" at the crane controls, my thought is to use the same type of electronic pot used on the accelerator pedal, wire it in parallel. Most likely put in a relay to switch between "cab throttle" and "crane throttle" which may well remove any issues of the computer getting odd signals etc etc.

The other mods I am thinking are a gearbox cooler with a fan (you are stationary), transfer case larger plate (the Ashcroft one) to increase capacity and the splash feed plate for the gearbox output shaft (even though later transfer boxes had the cross drills to allow lubrication), no I havent looked to see if it will fit the later boxes but I cant see why it wont etc etc.

The PTO option is still a very cool thing on a Defender...

Regards
Daz

I called MR automotive today and they said it would cost around $400.00 for a Defender second hand accelarator pedal. I hadn't thought to ask about a Discovery accelarator pedal. They might be cheaper as they are more common.
I really was not expecting the Defender accelarator to cost so much.

They have got cheaper than that...

I thought from memory new D2 (TD5) ones were round $500 and new Defender (TD5) were round $250, dont quote me on that price but Im sure its ballpark figures.

At one point they were hell expensive and at the time I had contact the manufacturer of the electronic pot attached to the complete assembly, they were happy to sell too me at (again from memory) $30 per unit at 2000 units per order.

Regards
Daz

Find the resistance of your accelerator pedal and buy one one these from Jaycar for about $2.25.


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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

Find the resistance of your accelerator pedal and buy one one these from Jaycar for about $2.25.


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Yep yep thats the idea, but a double pot.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Yep yep thats the idea, but a double pot.

Regards
Daz

Got me curious so I'll disappear and look through my books here and find out if I can get the values. I will post them up if I find something and see if I can match the Land Rover part with something off the shelf.
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A TD5 Pedal should have a pair of pots that linearly adjust the 5 volt supplies from 0 to 5 volts.
There should be 6 or 7 pins on the connector
2 5v supplies
2 ground connections
2 variable sensor outputs 0-5 volts
and some (not all) have a chksum connector I believe
I dont have a TD5 (anymore ) to measure the pots, but Im guessing they would be zero to 3 or 4 K ohms (linear)

Theoretically you should be able to substitute a ganged pair of pots. The may be synchronised or offset, just to complicate things

Probably best to consult the wiring diagram, and the vehicle software manual Hot wiring your pedal can put you into limp mode.