Tube or tubeless

Hi
Decided to bite the bullet and buy 4 wolf rims from TRS they seemed expensive @$165 each but I guess that's life!

I feel really the tyre shop should not have put tubes in a tubeless tyre without at least warning me of the pit falls?

So may have a chat with them regarding the swap over cost?

Cheers

Phil

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Originally Posted by philandmickey

Well now I'm a little embarrassed as the rims do have tubes!
The flat had a scuffed area on it.

Only one of the tyres has the valve neatly sitting in the valve hole of the rim the rest are poking out at an angle.

I got out my tyre plier kit out removed the tyre (easyer said than done!) and patched the tube.

That valve is sitting neatly in its hole now.

So now my question is would the tubes have moved with a fair bit of weight in the back, the pressures were at 40psi?

I've uped them to 60 at the back while I'm putting a bit of weight in it.
Cheers
Phil

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It sounds to me like fitting error. They didn't pump the tubes up, then let them down to relax before pumping them back up to full pressure. You can end up with a tube folded, twisted or just not sitting straight (evidenced by the valves not being in the holes straight) if you try to inflate them in one hit.

I have never had a tube creep at 30-40psi.

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Originally Posted by Dougal

My RRC alloy wheels are tubed type. They have no second lip for bead retention and the valve hole is bigger than a tubeless valve stem will fit. So needless to say it has run tubes forever.

That includes two sets of BFG A/T run from new to no-longer-legal. In all that time I had two tubes perish and fail, those tubes were very old.

I now run Wrangler duratracs on those same rims with tubes.

Summary: Tyre shop is making stuff up. Tubes work fine and should always be used on rims without the bead retaining hump.

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Hi Dougal,

I wasn't suggesting running tubeless on rims that need tubes at all. I had a set of older BF mud terrains and he inner surface on them was really abrasive. They were also getting old so had a few small internal cracks and these would rub on the tube making all the air fall out. I got 2 flats in a week like this. Other tubeless tyres I've seen have really smooth internal lining and work fine with tubes.

If you had ATs on tubes they must be smoother inside than the old muds I had. When I did go tubeless with new tyres I got new tubeless rims to stay safe and legal.

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Originally Posted by BigBlackDog

Hi Dougal,

I wasn't suggesting running tubeless on rims that need tubes at all. I had a set of older BF mud terrains and he inner surface on them was really abrasive. They were also getting old so had a few small internal cracks and these would rub on the tube making all the air fall out. I got 2 flats in a week like this. Other tubeless tyres I've seen have really smooth internal lining and work fine with tubes.

If you had ATs on tubes they must be smoother inside than the old muds I had. When I did go tubeless with new tyres I got new tubeless rims to stay safe and legal.

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A few weeks ago I could have photographed the inside of the AT's for you, but now they're all on rims again.
They aren't smooth at all. The inside is a series of ribs repeating every 5mm or so.
If you are concerned, they make tube protectors to go inside light truck rims between the tyres and the tubes.

The only punctures I received with the tubed A/T's were the tubes perishing and literally coming apart at the seams from age. But I don't run low pressure, lowest would be 30psi and normally 40psi.

I know tubes on low pressure (unde 10psi) ATV wheels just don't work. They keep moving round and either chafe to pieces or rip the valve stem out. Did you air down much?

130 rims are supplied either tubed or tubeless. There are two types, two different part numbers. Which do you have?

Tubed (Part no. ANR5593) and Tubeless (Part no. ANR4583) - See more at: Wolf wheels | Land Rover Expedition

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Originally Posted by Dougal

It sounds to me like fitting error. They didn't pump the tubes up, then let them down to relax before pumping them back up to full pressure. You can end up with a tube folded, twisted or just not sitting straight (evidenced by the valves not being in the holes straight) if you try to inflate them in one hit.

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I remember many "Old School" tyre fitters dusted the tube with chalk or talc before installing, but it does not seem to be done much these days. Is the chalk/talc a good idea or a bad idea?

Back to the drawing board, got the wheels home and they are tubed, despite my carefully explaining I wanted tubeless!

They have tubeless steel wheels off a 2013 year car, but want $300 each! Unless I'm being unrealistic that seems a ridiculous amount.

So now where to? I guess I'll explore after market wheels and see what they cost.
Anyone have any recommendations?
Phil

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Originally Posted by philandmickey

Back to the drawing board, got the wheels home and they are tubed, despite my carefully explaining I wanted tubeless!

They have tubeless steel wheels off a 2013 year car, but want $300 each! Unless I'm being unrealistic that seems a ridiculous amount.

So now where to? I guess I'll explore after market wheels and see what they cost.
Anyone have any recommendations?
Phil

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I thought your earlier price for Wolfs was a bit low!

If your going to pay $300 for tubeless Wolfs, I'd pay a little more and get good quality aftermarket alloys or I'd pay a lot less and get aftermarket steelies.

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Originally Posted by philandmickey

So now where to? I guess I'll explore after market wheels and see what they cost.
Anyone have any recommendations?
Phil

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Put tubes in properly and drive the bloody thing.

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Originally Posted by Dougal

Put tubes in properly and drive the bloody thing.

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or not - I've never had a problem with tubeless tyres fitted to standard defender rims

on the other hand I have had problems with tube abrasion if tubes were fitted to tyres on those rims