Try not to break the 'Christams tree clips" which hold the edges of the door card to the frame. Also when removing the surround of the "lock" at the top of teh door, be careful not to snap it.
Otherwisse it is as you say all pretty straight forward.
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						As previously mentioned in my recent post, I lost my driver's side window to a rather large rock thrown up by a passing Police car just out of Quilpie in Qld. I have finally got my replacement window after it was incorrectly sent to my home address instead of the Innamincka Trading Post where I was waiting for it 2 weeks ago!
Anyway, I will remove the old glass myself and install the new window this weekend. I don't really have the time to drop the car off at some window shop and wait for it to be done and then go and pick it up again so will do it myself.
It's a straight forward job and I have previously replaced the regulator mechanism on my Series II Disco with no dramas.
The big drama with these jobs is the removal of the door card/trim. Can anyone give me a heads up with potential issues that I might encounter with the door trim, or any hints and tips, before I start?
Thanks in advance
Try not to break the 'Christams tree clips" which hold the edges of the door card to the frame. Also when removing the surround of the "lock" at the top of teh door, be careful not to snap it.
Otherwisse it is as you say all pretty straight forward.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Buy yourself some trim removal tools - they'll make the panel work easier.
The rest is pretty easy.
trim removal tools ?
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
Take your pick:
Trim Removal Tool Kit | eBay
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Thanks for the advice and wish me luck - will make a start on it tonite at the girlfriend's place. Going to be fun getting the old window out - but hopefully the tinting will hold it all in place.
Watching all those episodes of Wheeler Dealers on Discovery channel where Ed China restores and fixes all those classic cars (he does a TD5 Defender 90 and a Disco in a couple of episodes) makes it all look too easy.
I love Wheeler Dealers - wish it was on free 2 air tv.
It's not broken. It's "Carbon Neutral".
gone
1993 Defender 110 ute "Doris"
1994 Range Rover Vogue LSE "The Luxo-Barge"
1994 Defender 130 HCPU "Rolly"
1996 Discovery 1
current
1995 Defender 130 HCPU and Suzuki GSX1400
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Job done! Successfully replaced the driver's window on Friday night with no major dramas. However, things are a wee bit different to what it has in the workshop manual. I downloaded a workshop manual recently after following the links on this forum and printed out the relevant pages to help me along. Door trim was straight forward and as per the book. The dust/vibration sheet was tricky as it's thin poly foam. Much care needs to be taken with that - I did rip it a few times but used the cloth based gaffer tape to seal it up when I stuck it back on. The next job is the reinforcment panel. Book said 5 bolts plus 4 bolts for the window motor. Actually there were 3 extra bolts along the leading edge as well 2 bolts holding the regulator to the panel. The book was confusing here as it had 2 separate ways of removing the regulator and neither fitted my car! Also, the wiring for the electrics was a problem that the book didn't mention. I unplugged the motor but left the wiring for the door lock in place. The book mentions removing the remote pushrod from the interior door handle at the latch end, but didn't mention the pushrod from the solenoid. In the end I disconnected what I could and still had wires attached to the panel but it sat in the footwell nicely out of the way so I didn't worry. Removed the old window - amazingly it was still basically in one piece as the gaffer tape and tinting held it together. Vacuumed the bits of glass from the bottom of the door and made sure that the window runners were also clean. Everything re-assembled ok, although I had to figure out the door latch connections but eventually worked it out. The big problem was the sealing strip on the outside - the book said to be careful prising it off so that you don't scratch the paint. Unfortunately, I wasn't careful enough and there are visible marks in the paint
But I now have a window that works and all is well - just have to get it re-tinted.
cheers
Andrew
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