HERE WE GO!
![]()
Edit: This post was rubbish.
See below.
HERE WE GO!
![]()
Your other option is to pm drivesafe as he sells an excellent piece of kit to put a relay in the high/low beams (saves the switch on the stalk) and another relay for which can run 2 sets of additional lights off. His kit includes a connector to plug into the loom and onto the headlight so no need to splice into wires in the engine compartment.
If you do a search the wiring diagrams are in other posts here and he is also very helpful to talk to.
Apart from that Judo's diagram is the simplest implementation of the wiring.
Richard
the 10amp fuse for the high beam was blowing. Only on the side that the LED bar is tapped to. I changed it to 20amp. seems to be good so far.
The high beam has separate fuses for the lhs and rhs
The relay coil should pull so little current that an updated fuse wouldn't be needed - I think you've got issues mate, sounds like you're drawing the power to run the light bar from the high beam circuit.
Strongly suggest you follow Justin's diagram above.
Yep... it was a separate fuse for LHS and RHS. Might go and have a fiddle with it now and see if I've got it set same as above
Read the numbers on the relay. Power should be from battery to 30/51 and output to lights from 87. The numbers are always AFAIK raised tiny numbers next to each blade terminal of the relay.
The sensor from high beam to 86. IMHO the best place for the switch is between the relay and earth ie on the 85 terminal of the relay. This is not shown in the diagram.
Regards Philip A
The switch can then go to earth.
Last edited by PhilipA; 1st November 2013 at 08:25 PM. Reason: more info
ok had a look. I'll post a pic tomorrow when the sun is out.
the relay I've got is different.. but theres two positive lines and two negatives. Both negatives are grounded to the battery. One positive line goes towards the fuse that goes to the main 'on and off' switch. The other positive goes towards the fuse and relay then onto the battery.
My only question now is do I tap the high beam to the one that goes to the switch or the one that goes to the fuse/relay? With the way it is now the switch seems to act on the relay whilst the high beam stalk acts on the power. when I hit the switch I can hear the relay clicking. but the light will only go on when I put the high beams on...
There should be thick wires and thin wires.
The thick wires are for power and the thin wires are for controlling the relay.
The thick power wires should ONLY go from the battery to the light via the relay and fuse.
If the switch is on a positive wire it should be the same wire that goes from the headlight wire, although there may be two separate wires for some reason that I cannot think of.
There may be some differences in this arrangement with the supplied loom as some Japanese 4WD ground the headlights through their headlight switch rather than switching positive and it may be set up for that.
Anyway send us a photo.
Regards Philip A
Yep thats all sorted now. I just went back to the car and I had it the wrong way around. Where the headlight was going to the thick wire (explains why it was blowing the fuse)
I've since swapped it around.
it's now set as thick + wire tapped onto battery which leads to the fuse then relay. Then relay to two wires for LED bar with both negatives grounded to the battery. the remaining positive thin line is tapped to the line that goes to the high beam wire. So the relay now only turns on when the light is on.
Not when 'on off' is switched as mentioned earlier.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks