Thread: Salisbury in 130

I cant find it on mine, Im guessing it was behind the MD actuator or stone guard…

I dont know if the HD housing was standard on 110 Cab chassis? I was hoping, but my gut says no. Id say if it did have the 39s, it would also have the little extra webs etc that the some of the suspension mounts have on the 130s

Originally Posted by uninformed

I cant find it on mine, Im guessing it was behind the MD actuator or stone guard…

I dont know if the HD housing was standard on 110 Cab chassis? I was hoping, but my gut says no. Id say if it did have the 39s, it would also have the little extra webs etc that the some of the suspension mounts have on the 130s

In that drawing for non TD5 rear axle, see how they drew the location of the breather relative to the right side of the string of numbers - that is exactly how mine is.

In my long post above, the pic of Salisbury axle loads came from a document for the 110 and 130 Cab Chassis and it shows both standard and heavy duty 110's. So unless JRA in their wisdom decided to only bring in the HD version, then you may have the standard version.

If the Maxi-Drive actuator is in the number location, one would hope the installer would have re-stamped the number somewhere else. However if you remove the breather then you can get a good idea of the wall thickness of the axle tube where the tapping is. IIRC the wall thickness is approximately 6mm (standard 110) vs 8mm (HD 110 or standard 130).

Edit: "21S", etc are the prefix of a longer number. On mine (21S) the stamped numbers are approximately 10mm high.

Originally Posted by n plus one

Aw crap, now I really am gunna' sound like I'm being a difficult bugger!

In my experience, the front Rover is the weaker link of the two and the one I'd upgrade first. There's been a number fail dramatically that I'm aware of and my front was (almost) one of them - I dropped the oil pre my Simpson crossing and found a handful of metal chunks - spider gear pin had sheared but hadn't quite got free enough to cause full scale destruction

I really think this diff is the one to be most worried about - if only due to the rapid nature of the failure. Obviously a 4 pin carrier is a cheap and highly effective way to address this one - fortunately I already had a complete ATB equipped carrier sitting in the shed!

Yeh I know......but I could't be bothered worrying about it. I do understand however it can jamb and run me off the road so better get out the torch and have a look. See how it's travelling at least. Just spent the weekend at Landcruiser Mountain Park. Just amazed what a Defer will do with a locker in the bum. So sure footed, so predictable, so slow and safe. Kinda takes just about all the uncertainty out of things and leaves just the fun. Climbed Telstra hill like it was a little mound. That anti stall also is a hidden gem. The front diff performed faultlessly as did everything. Might save some pennies for a ATB or Tru Trac, but certainly doesn't need it for more capability with what I do.

Does the 130 have traction control aswell

Originally Posted by Landy86

Does the 130 have traction control aswell

na, no traction or ABS, just two traditional open diffs. I think I most likely would have got 85% of where I went anyway, but with a lot more wheel spinning, momentum, and attempts required.
I sold the idea of a locker to the wife as a safety thing, which it truly is, amongst other things.

I have just done the p38 rear to sals conversion, although i did mine a little different upgrading the centre to a dana60 HD and custom 35 spline axles which was a bit more work but worthwhile considering i would have had to upgrade the centre and axles anyway.

I wouldnt have bothered if i thought i could rely on the p38 diff, in a heavily loaded 130 towing a heavy camper through some serious terrain. Although mine has never given me issues the change certainly took some slop out of the drive line, and i personally know several people that have had multiple failures and swaps of p38 rears in defenders under warranty, and this is in vehicles that haven't been abused offroad, on the other hand though i have have seen 100's of sals getting hammered off road and only seen a handfull of failures - primarily broken axles.

As for clearance, with a bit of a shave a sals its pretty damn close in clearance to a rover diff, certainly a price i am willing to pay to have a strong reliable diff.

PAT303 we should test the diffs under stess test, my sals rear diff loaded up against your p38 rear increasing in load and see which fails first....

Quest: would a standard tube sals from a 110 be suitable for a 130?

I plan to buy a Puma 130 and currently have a maxi built sals in the rear of my 110 that i'd like to swap over if/when the acquisition is made. The plan is to make it a tough tourer to carry a slide on box when touring but not loaded to the GVM.

The alternate Q, how hard is it to find a 130 sals? Still be a pain to cut and weld the actuator into a new diff housing.

MLD

Originally Posted by MLD

Quest: would a standard tube sals from a 110 be suitable for a 130?

I plan to buy a Puma 130 and currently have a maxi built sals in the rear of my 110 that i'd like to swap over if/when the acquisition is made. The plan is to make it a tough tourer to carry a slide on box when touring but not loaded to the GVM.

The alternate Q, how hard is it to find a 130 sals? Still be a pain to cut and weld the actuator into a new diff housing.

MLD

You could laminate (sleeve) the 110 housing internally, however it probably wouldn't be as strong as a 130 housing.

There are plenty of aftermarket bracing kits for a D60 that will fit a sals, however many are poorly designed and many would foul the tank or the suspension links.