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Thread: 2.2 fuel consumption

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nugge t View Post
    My 130 is about as stock as it could be at his stage, chees cutters and still no tray! So far I am very happy getting 10 to 11l/100.

    The 110 on 285's with roof rack, bullbar, winch etc etc returned consistently in the 14's on 10,000kms trips predominantly on dirt. If you are consistently getting a genuine 17l/100 it doesn't sound right, but i would be very surprised it is tyres or suspension, unless you are running on flat tyres
    Thanks for the response...
    On this short trip I've done 300km's and gauge is reading just above half but this is with 285's so what I'm going to need to do is get a GPS and accurately measure the distances compared to litres used...I run my tyres at 33psi

  2. #22
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    On what basis have you calculated getting 17l/100? To accurately measure usage you have to fill the vehicle and then measure how many kms travelled until you fill again.

    Driving for 6-8 hours in 2nd gear towing a trailer is not a reasonable measure of h/way economy, nor is driving 300kms and using the guage being a bit over half.

    If you are serious about calculating your true economy, buy a Scanguage, not a GPS..just a suggestion.

  3. #23
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    The cheapest tool for working out fuel usage is a pen & paper.
    Take note of K's traveled at each fill up & the volume of fuel installed in the tank each time.
    Go to the below link, enter your data.
    :: The Long Ranger ::

    Now you have accurate fuel usage.

    Cheers
    David

  4. #24
    n plus one Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by nugge t View Post

    If you are serious about calculating your true economy, buy a Scanguage, not a GPS..just a suggestion.
    Once calibrated a ScanGuage pulls a lot of noise out your fuel consumption readings - I doing mind extremely useful for getting a set reliable consumption figures for different conditions: loaded in sand, towing, etc...

  5. #25
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    Just got home from a small trip.

    554.2km (from speedo)
    Highway driving
    90-105km/h
    No labouring and no high revs just letting it coast along and letting it slow down going up hills as it pleases so foot was never flat.
    285/75/16 @ 33psi
    No roof basket
    Steel tray
    Dog crate
    2people

    =67.95L

    =12.26L/100

  6. #26
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    so the problem is???

  7. #27
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    Sounds about right.

    I have MTRs which will add 1 litre or so which is probably the same effect as your larger tyres.

    Add another 1 litre for the 130 and we are looking about the same.

    I don't get 600 km range when on the highway - ever. Still chasing that tailwind I need


    Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    Just got home from a small trip.

    554.2km (from speedo)
    Highway driving
    90-105km/h
    No labouring and no high revs just letting it coast along and letting it slow down going up hills as it pleases so foot was never flat.
    285/75/16 @ 33psi
    No roof basket
    Steel tray
    Dog crate
    2people

    =67.95L

    =12.26L/100
    I should add from my understanding you don't have to put your foot flat to be 100% throttle in high range. More like half way down as the throttle map is changed between high and low range.

    If I put the foot down further and nothing happens I presume it is already at 100%.

    May be my warped perspective but the 2.2 is probably pulling 100% more often than you think - no chance of glazing mine up and diesels like to work don't they

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using AULRO mobile app

  9. #29
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    There isn't really a huge problem with that but that's driving like a grandpa so realistically who is gunna drive like that all the time ? I know with driving all the time be it to work or trips I prefer to get there in reasonable time which grandpa seed just don't cut it hence fuel usage goes up...makes you sad comparing it to say the economy of the ford rangers compare that to the power figures that makes you even more sad...
    John will be able to inform us more about how the right foot and fuel usage on a common rail diesel is related however my understanding is that yes a diesel is more efficient when under load however there would be more to it.
    I've noticed that by putting a set weight on the back of the ute compared to that same weight in a trailer towing the trailer uses considerably more fuel and drops at least 1 gear up the same hills.
    I know with old mechanically injected diesels the right foot determines everything so the smoother and lighter you are the less fuel you use...if your right foot is fully down and speed is not increasing then it is working hard

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimNZ View Post
    I've found them to be pretty similar:





    For my 2c worth the 2.2 is a better engine, more drivable, better power range. However the only place I miss the 2.4 is on the highway, put your foot down in 6th anywhere above 80km/h and it would go, the 2.2 you are back to 5th, (I know its lazy driving and I deserve a kicking for it, but hey).

    However I do find the 2.2 is more happy at 100/110km/h than the 2.4. The 2.2 loves to rev, and I've had a few passengers think it's a petrol.

    Cheers,

    Tim
    Install the new BAS 2013 map on the 2.4l and feel the power..... 450nm 125kw, little too no black smoke, yeah baby

    And 13.1l/100k's towing a camper over 4500k's on Fraser Island with return to the Central Coast NSW.

    Gota be happy with that

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