Yes, you have to take the pedal box out. 6 bolts from memory. Make sure you but a rubber gasket around it when refitting as it is a source of water entry.
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Yes, you have to take the pedal box out. 6 bolts from memory. Make sure you but a rubber gasket around it when refitting as it is a source of water entry.
Don't know which Defender you have but with a 300 & 200 you can get the master out without removing the pedal box, mind you you need to be a bit of a contortionist. (easier with help)
Martyn
I removed the master cylinder by it's self and left the pedal box alone.
Using a angle grinder I cut the end out of a super cheep ring spanner leaving just enough gap for a firm push to get the spanner over the push rod, this makes the job way easier than trying to use a open ender inside the confines of the pedal box .
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Thanks for all the advise.
I changed the master and slave and rubber pipe, bled the system with quite a good tool the power bleeder, basically a pressure bleeder did it in 5 min's, the bleeding that is, but to no avail, the peddle feels good but still the same can't get it to engage a gear can select a gear when turned off and then drive so to be honest I'm a bit lost as to what is causing the problem! surely if the clutch plate had gone then I wouldn't be able to drive like that? is it the selector or what??
Cheers ted
Broken springs on the clutch plate will let you start in gear and drive ok.
Just wont disengage.
What engine and gearbox combination do you have.
Which engine is it in your Defender?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushie
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1996 300Tdi Defender110.
If you need to a hand to do the clutch, drop me a pm. Haven't got much to do for the next week.
Sent from my HTC Velocity 4G using AULRO mobile app
sounds like you need to pull the box out
you might pick up a tip here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-defender.html
Check out Ranga's thread on his clutch failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by ted44
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-ch...near-bega.html
To be on the safe side give the input shaft of the gearbox a wiggle as well, pull it back and forwards to check for any end float and move it from side to side and you should find the shaft shouldn't move at all, apart from being able to spin freely in neutral.
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