Thread: Lift Kit Requirements to fit 255/85's

Originally Posted by patclan

I have ZU Alloy rims on my 110 with 255's the rim is +11 offset, it does make a difference to turn circle as well as adjusting the stop bolts.

I had a bit of sag on the front with the bullbar and winch so the tyre was quite close to the flair, some +2 springs in the front fixed that, in the rear I have the auxiliary full tank in the right rear corner, fully laden going over the Simpson the tyres did rub the tank on a couple of occasions but these were big hits if you know what I mean, I have airbags to put in the rear before my next trip to help that. I also have Koni raids all round, I have not actually lifted the vehicle, the gaps between the bump stops are pretty much what they used to be before I added lots of weight, the springs just compensated for that weight.

I find the bigger tyre great for the extra clearance, my only issue is the steering does not feel as good as it used to, my 255's are km2, but I will probably change to 265 AT soon and keep the km2 for reserve, not sure if the change in tyre height affect the steering much but I am going to find out I guess when I go to the 265.

Cheers
Pat

I've found that 255/85s feel more 'rolly' when cornering or lane changing than 265/75s.

I too like the extra clearance the bigger tyres provide - to the extent that I'm thinking about changing my diff gears and running 35s.

To the OP, it's important to remember that any lift that involves increased travel doesn't give you additional tyre clearance at full compression - it just means you'll be less likely to spend as much time at full compression. Only a body lift/suspension-drop style lift will give you more clearance at full compression.

Originally Posted by MLD

The HD (wolf) are +20mm. I have sawtooth rims at home but haven't looked at the offset.



have a look at Flatdog. Sold by Coffs Harbour 4wd and a few others on Ebay. Bit pricey. I got mine from the UK but postage is a killer with the falling dollar.



As uninformed said, unsprung weight. I have Disco 1 alloys and disco 1 steelies with 33" muddies. There is a marked groan factor when lifting the steel rim over the alloy. A test a while back done by 4wd Action (take what you like from the info) on after market steel v factory steel v factory alloy v aftermarket alloy. Long and short the factory steel and factory alloy were about the same strength which was twice as strong at the aftermarket steel. Aftermarket alloy was 50% stronger again over the factory stuff. Factory alloys take a hell-o-va beating before becoming broken. I've been running around on alloys for 3 years doing tough stuff and giving them a real working over and they are scratched and showing signs of abuse but yet to fail me.

As for the OP, in my opinion and experience with the 255/85 a lift is not necessary if your springs are holding up well (not sagging). If you are minded to change shocks you might as well splurge on coils as well and have them matched. Coils are cheap (relatively) and a modest extra expense in labour versus just replacing the shocks.

As mentioned earlier a 0 offset is about perfect for the 255/85 to maximise steering lock and avoid rubbing on the rear spring hanger. Easiest and cheapest is a tie between 30mm spacers on the factory +33mm rims OR aftermarket steel rims with 0 offset. It's an option to re-dish the disco 1 steelies to a 0 offset but unless you have a set laying around the cost of buying a set then modifying them may not be cost effective. Eastern Wheel Works will make you a set of HD steelies for $340 each but word on the street is that they are very heavy.

MLD

Ill second the whole alloy thing… been using them forever and I reckon they are fine

285/75x16 MTZ's on 8inch-Neutral off set.

Flares are Flat Dogs +50mm.

Flat Dog flares are far superior quality than the TF's, perfect fit and do not develop the "sag" between the screws. These have been on over 2 year.

No rubbing on steering links or guards. A little on the stock flares but not on the FD's

Originally Posted by Drover

285/75x16 MTZ's on 8inch-Neutral off set.

Flares are Flat Dogs +50mm.

Flat Dog flares are far superior quality than the TF's, perfect fit and do not develop the "sag" between the screws. These have been on over 2 year.

No rubbing on steering links or guards. A little on the stock flares but not on the FD's

Looks like a sweet setup bru. So then you don't have a lift just flares and different wheels??

Originally Posted by uninformed

I will have to disagree with the wolf rim as a good choice for these. I have wolf rims on my 110 running 235/85R16 (smaller than the 255s) Steering is not great and its not for lack of adjusting steering stops. (my radius arms are my stops )

You will also find the tyre will fowl on the 110 rear spring pearch (110 having larger dia springs than your 90).

What you are saying does not make sense. The Wolf rims have less backspacing than a stock Defender rim. This must give more clearance than stock.

On your 235s, the center of the tyre is moved out by 13 mm, so steering lock has to be better than stock. The fact it is crap is the way it comes from the factory....

Believe it or not, people have 110s here as well..... Lived in Aus for 5 years as well. If you were in the Gold Coast in the late 90s, we probably met on the trails.

The only time I've seen people with spring perch problems is running Disco or RR rims which have much more backspacing. The aftermarket wheels with 0 to 10 mm neg. offset are great but you start running into problems fouling the arches and need to trim with bigger tyres.

Originally Posted by defrover

Looks like a sweet setup bru. So then you don't have a lift just flares and different wheels??

It has a 50mm lift.

Do you reckon it has improved your articulation and all that jazz or just made you sit higher and did nothing for performance ?

Originally Posted by Red90

What you are saying does not make sense. The Wolf rims have less backspacing than a stock Defender rim. This must give more clearance than stock.

On your 235s, the center of the tyre is moved out by 13 mm, so steering lock has to be better than stock. The fact it is crap is the way it comes from the factory....

Believe it or not, people have 110s here as well..... Lived in Aus for 5 years as well. If you were in the Gold Coast in the late 90s, we probably met on the trails.

The only time I've seen people with spring perch problems is running Disco or RR rims which have much more backspacing. The aftermarket wheels with 0 to 10 mm neg. offset are great but you start running into problems fouling the arches and need to trim with bigger tyres.

Ok, I never said the wolf rim was worse than the stock 5.5 steel rims. Just that the steering is not great with the wolf rim and my 235, so one could assume it will be a touch worse with the slightly wider and taller 255. and that not ideal. Its not rocket science.

Going from a stock 5.5 rim to a wolf 6.5 rim also changes the tyre profile slightly when mounted (ie the tyre will be a touch wider on the wider rim)

Even with no spring lift the rear tyres (235 on a 5.5) come very close to rubbing on the spring perch. Add taller, wider tyre on a not much less backspace rim and its not going to go away.

Add a lift and it gets worse.

Yes I am aware that there are 110s in Nth America, yes I am aware that you lived here for a few years....