Thread: REDARC In Vehicle Battery Charger for 130 Puma

Hi Chenz and one of my kits will not only give you more battery capacity to run your accessories, which means there is far less likelihood of your fridge’s error light coming with my systems, you also end up with both batteries being kept in a higher state of charge, and again this further reduces the chances of your fridge’s error light coming on.

No matter if it’s a DC/DC set up or a standard VSR set up, there is no other dual battery system on the market that gives as much available battery capacity as what my systems supply.

Again, this means you are far less likely to have a fridge error light come on, or another way to put it, with one of my kits, you can run your fridge for at least 50% longer, before the error light comes on.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Chenz and one of my kits will not only give you more battery capacity to run your accessories, which means there is far less likelihood of your fridge’s error light coming with my systems, you also end up with both batteries being kept in a higher state of charge, and again this further reduces the chances of your fridge’s error light coming on.

No matter if it’s a DC/DC set up or a standard VSR set up, there is no other dual battery system on the market that gives as much available battery capacity as what my systems supply.

Again, this means you are far less likely to have a fridge error light come on, or another way to put it, with one of my kits, you can run your fridge for at least 50% longer, before the error light comes on.

the only problem I see with this design is...which I think I have experienced...is when your start battery is starting to falter and you don't want to draw off it as you need to get to the end of you trip. although I could have a miss understanding of how the system works.

when I thought my controller was failing the other week I had full intention of going back to a simple solenoid.....KISS

I think it’s important that people know that DC/DC devices are not the first option, as all the advertising tries to make out, but should actually be considered as a last option.

In many set ups, DC/DC devices come in in a poor second place to what an alternator can do by itself.

Then add the way my isolators improve both the use and the the charging of batteries, there is no way a DC/DC set up can be justified as being “BETTER”.

At the end of the day, the aim is to have the highest charge batteries as possible. My isolators allow you to do this far “better” than DC/DC devices can, and for far less outlay.

Long term, the aim is to get the longest possible life span from a battery. Again, because of the way my isolators work, your batteries are not worked anywhere near as hard as they are with a DC/DC dual battery set up, based on the same amount of energy used, so again, my systems offer far better long term results.

Then there is the fact that my systems give the user, on average at least 50% more usable battery at no extra cost or no increase in weight or additional lost of space.

So Drover, can you point out where a DC/DC device is an advantage over one of my set ups?

I thought the reason for going BCDC was if you had a temp sensing alternator or one which shuts down when a desired voltage had been reached.

Do isolators work in the above case? I thought not as well.

G

Hi Sirocco, because of the unique way my isolators operate, they work very well with most of these variable voltage types of alternator systems.

My isolators do NOT work on vehicles like the Ford Ranger.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Well yes Drover, this is usually the case but when I, as a vendor, see people being deliberately mislead by all the one sided advertising hype used to sell DC/DC devices, I think it’s important that people know that DC/DC devices are not the first option, as all the advertising tries to make out, but should actually be considered as a last option.

In many set ups, DC/DC devices come in in a poor second place to what an alternator can do by itself.

Then add the way my isolators improve both the use and the the charging of batteries, there is no way a DC/DC set up can be justified as being “BETTER”.

At the end of the day, the aim is to have the highest charge batteries as possible. My isolators allow you to do this far “better” than DC/DC devices can, and for far less outlay.

Long term, the aim is to get the longest possible life span from a battery. Again, because of the way my isolators work, your batteries are not worked anywhere near as hard as they are with a DC/DC dual battery set up, based on the same amount of energy used, so again, my systems offer far better long term results.

Then there is the fact that my systems give the user, on average at least 50% more usable battery at no extra cost or no increase in weight or additional lost of space.

So Drover, can you point out where a DC/DC device is an advantage over one of my set ups?

I have to agree I run my arkpak using drivesafe's equipment every time I drive the thing is charged 100% and lasts 3 days ....tried and tested in Tassie this year....

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Sirocco, because of the unique way my isolators operate, they work very well with most of these variable voltage types of alternator systems.

My isolators do NOT work on vehicles like the Ford Ranger.

Does that include the type of alternator in an 08' Puma?

DriveSafe,
I've purchased your Def-USI-160 , but yet to install. When starting the motor, does the auxiliary battery contribute to the cranking effort ?
Hope this Q is not too stoopid

cheers
Andy