Given the volume of a 90 300gph with automatic float switch
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Given the volume of a 90 300gph with automatic float switch
So today I worked on wiring in the reverse light onto the rear bar.
The destruction manual requires the 3 wires to be attached to a vehicle earth, a vehiche 12V +, and 12V+ which poweres with the reverse switch.
"Easy" thought I. But no, I managed to mess it all up, didn't I.
The first task was to get the wiring to the LHS of the vehicle where the power and reverse light switch points are. Easy as- I soldered the supplied 3 core wire that is attached to the light post, to some funky orange 3-core wire I picked up from bunnings for like $2 per meter. Winning @ tightarsery. I then whacked this and some spare 7 core wire in some conduit, and fed it across the top of the rear crossmember to the area behind the LHS rear quarter. The plan was to feed this up into the vehicle, make the necessary terminations up there, and call it a day.
But No.
This involved undoing most of the conduit work I did yesterday. I needed to expose the factory loom, and locate the wire that goes to the reverse lamp.
The logical man like myself goes to the reverse lamp, disconnects it and looks at the colours of the wires coming in the back. I used the multimeter to test continuity of each pin in the plug - the black wire is earth, and this beeps when continuity is seen at a known earth - like the chassis.
"Good-o" says I. This must mean that the other wire is the 12v+ and lo and behold it showed 12.37V at the pin. That was the purple green wire.
So I hacked into the loom, and fished out that wire, and made a nick in it to test that I had continuity back to the plug on the lamp. It did.
Stupid me forgot to measure voltage at that point, and proceeded to solder in a splice to run to the light. I loosely attached everything, and went thru the motions of checking it out...
Middle position on the switch... permanently off. That works OK.
Top position On permanently. That works OK.
Bottom position, on with the reverse light.
On with the reverse light?
Houston... we have a problem.
I am actually red/green colourblind. Looks like I can add dyslexic and retarded to my resume.
I now have a rear work light which comes on when I indicate left.
:censored::censored::censored:
Back to the drawing board to find the right wire this time... I get to undo my wire loom for a 3rd time.
Joy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/12/295.jpg
Is it little late to let you know there is a reverse power wire on the right rear corner?
My trailer plug harness is connected to a multi plug in behind the fog lamp area of the main body harness.
I used the reverse feed from it to re-wire the fog light that also got a clear lens.
Never too late!Quote:
Originally Posted by alien
I did read about that, but thought it was a 12V supply, and that it was removed in the later models. Might have got my wires crossed!
I poked around with the multimeter, on the 6 wire plug that is wrapped in foam tape, but had little luck finding the 12V i was looking for, but if one of them is reverse switched, that would make sense.
Any hints on what colour wire I might be looking for?
I had a quick look at the wire connectors on RAVE for the trailer plug.Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger
Possibly GP, Green with a Purple trace for the reverse lights.
The white wire in the loom which runs thru the rear wheel well appears to be the right wire for the LHS rear reversing lamp.Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger
Just need to splice the feed for the work lamp in, and then I'm good to go.
To wire in the reversing/worklight on mine I pulled the reversing wire from the trailer plug and connected directly to that. I use the reversing connector on the trailer plug to run an ignition wire to the camper trailer.
From memory the reversing wire is purple.
So other than a few connections and tomfoolery yet to happen, the wiring for the rear is done.
Going to try and cram one of these in the back somewhere:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/12/237.jpg
Still not sure how I'll do the switching, but in any case, this will allow easy connections if needed. The 7-core wire that is run back to the front will allow some higher draw circuits to be switched with a relay if needed, or else the above unit is good for 100A total, or max 30A per circuit.
Wiring looms completed (LHS rear wheel arch- mud shield yet to be fitted)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1450869333
The cable entry behind LHS rear speaker
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1450869333
Happy festivus to one and all
Happy Festivus to you too.
Or wash down...Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyG