3 Attachment(s)
Rear speaker panel modifications
So today I did just a small job- removing the terrible plastic scrivets that hold the rear speaker panel to the vehicle, and replacing them with some M6 aluminium riv nuts and some stainless fasteners.
The standard items look like this, and out of the 6 I removed, I managed to bugger 3 of them- the plastic thread (its more of a broad rounded spiral than a thread) can easily bind and snaps the head off the scrivet, if the phillips head part doesnt round off first :censored:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1451798972
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1451798972
So out came the old items- the scrivets and their plastic press-in securing grommets - and a M6 rivnut was installed. I picked up some 316 stainless M6 dome head screws to suit, and installed them with a coat of duralac to prevent any undue corrosion.
Finished result:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1451798972
Depending onhow keen I want to get, I might seal the bottom of the riv-nut with some silicone to prevent any water and mud getting into the thread, or pick up some of those rubber hose blanking caps like thus
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/01/909.jpg
5 Attachment(s)
Rear Ladder Modifications
Still haven't installed the new checker plate parts as above. :wheelchair:
Instead, I've been working on some other mods!
The rear Ladder I had was a OE land rover part, and was on the vehicle when I purchased it.
When the rear bar went on, it had to go, but on the other hand, I was left with a number of holes / riv nuts in the vehicle from the ladder that needed to be filled. I like the ladder to get onto the roof rack, so I opted to modify the OE item to suit my new needs.
With a few swift cuts, this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454205479
Became this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454205479
After some grinder surgery I was left with this.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454205479
Ready for welding
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454205479
After a few coats of paint, it is somewhat presentable (no pics yet).
I did however have a mishap with the plastic coating that land rover uses on these parts. Even though I was welding at as low a setting as I could, the very low melting point of the plastic caused some bubbling of the coating. I had to sand and repaint some sections, which is a relatively decent colour match, but still not as nice as the original finish.
This mod will allow me to utilize the existing top holes in the roofb gutter sill, and I will need to install 2 more approx M8 holes for the bottom mount in the body capping area of the tub. Need to decide on some fasteners for this, hopefully I can get a bolt with some kind of decorative head so that it is not too obtrusive as it's right at chest level on the back of the car, and needs to look a bit more presentable than just the plain hex head or tek-screw approach. Maybe some nice stainless security Torx screws or something :cool:
On another note,
I found some 8mm vacuum pipe blanking caps at supercheap. These were used to cap off the exposed riv nuts which were installed for the rear fuse block access panel / speaker panel. Safe from mud ingress now, so should stop any potential galling of the threads.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1454205479
5 Attachment(s)
Tool-less removable mud flap mod
My take on the melting mud-flap problem with the 90's was a two-fold problem.
Not only have I experienced the melting mud flap syndrome, but I do in fact also take this car offroad, and have fallen victim to 2 separate incidents where the mud flap was plucked off when it becomes pinched between the tyre and a rock. At approx $300 for a replacement pair, this would get tiring pretty quick, and my conveyor belt rubber home-jobs were starting to look a bit tired (I've avtually been rocking only 1 mudflap for 8 months now!)
So the idea was born that a 'quick release' mud flap arrangement was needed. My goal was to have a quick way to remove the mud flaps to prevent damage- either while on-road from melting (at the supposed >100km/h which cause melting), and while offroad.
The design is simple, using the existing, factory mounting points on the vehicle, which are M6 riv-nuts affixed to the rear crossmember. From here, studs would be drilled to accept a R-Clip (or cotter pin, if you were so inclined), and a wing nut would secure it all together. A section of rubber would provide some tension on the wing nut arrangement, and the R-clip hole would be spaced sufficiently to stop the wing nut backing off too far.
I initially wanted to get some M6 exhaust studs, as these would be an easy way to get a stud on the chassis to which to attach the flaps. But I didn't find these to be readily available, so I decided to manufacture something myself to make a weekend project.
I used 6 off 316 stainless M6x40mm bolts, and lopped off the heads
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...2&d=1454210871
From there, a Mild steel nut was threaded onto the stud, and a hole drilled thru the nut and Stainless bolt, to create a 2.5mm diameter hole for the R-clip.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...3&d=1454210871
Please don't judge me because of the size of my vise. It's little but it works well :p
The threads were cleaned up with a Die and thread file.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...5&d=1454210871
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...4&d=1454210871
I also chamfered the end of the stud to make lining up the wing nut a bit easier. This was done by chucking it up in the drill and running it against a smooth file. This allows the wing nut to be located in the right spot before you start turning it, I hate messing about trying to get a thread started in upside-down. out of position places. This idea was an absolute win.
A 8mm thick piece of rubber was then cut to make a gasket to match the size and hole spacing for the mud flap bracket. This puts pressure on the wing nut, similar to what a spring washer does, so should help to alleviate the wing nuts backing off under rough conditions.
I then set up a lock nut arrangement to determine a 20mm stud 'depth' for the vehicle side of the arrangement. This measurement allows the thickness of the rubber gasket, mud flap bracket, and wing nut to be closer to the location of the hole I drilled for the R-Clip. The stud was installed with loc-tite 243 thread lock sealant, and installed on the vehicle, ensuring that the holes in the bolts were aligned towards the sides of the vehicle for easy access and insertion of the R-clips.
Once the loctite was set, it was then an easy matter of installing the rubber gasket, spinning up the wing nut, and sliding in the R clip. It is very sturdy. It takes approx 15 seconds per side to remove a mud flap, so that's a win in my book.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
I'm still undecided as to how I'll go with stopping the mud flap from bending into the hot exhaust gas. The little stainless trim piece I made is still up in the air... not sure whether I'll go this way or not. But something will be done eventually.
