Thread: Rust protection - is it needed?

Fish oil, cats start chasing you car,
Lanolin, kiwis start chasing,.........

Dn't you guys have Dinitrol down there?

There is no right answer in this game
I was going to go down the Tecktyl 506 road, but given my skills, tools and time I will get a professional treatment all over, but$$'
Keeping it clean underneath is key
An annual touch up and repair for those knocks & scratches along the way.

Anything will be better than nothing!
And be paranoid about galvanic action

My armchair wisdom after reading many posts

Originally Posted by ericvv

Dn't you guys have Dinitrol down there?

It looks like a wax oil so similar to 506.

Originally Posted by micksta1973

To protect inside the chassis rails, get a few cans of fish oil or lanolin, and a length of stiff small diameter sprinkler tubing. block one end of tubing and ***** lots of small holes in the blocked end of tubing (length ways) for 5cm or so, poke down chassis rail, attach open end to can and squirt as you slowly pull the hose back out. I used 2 cans per rail. bit stinky for a while though.

Most posts in this thread seem to be concentrating on treating the outside of the chassis.

IME chassis and door frames rust from the inside out.

The mount of sand and dirt that can get inside the chassis is surprising.

Treating the outside of the chassis is purely cosmetic in most of AU since we don't put salt on the roads.

Simplest solution is to move inland!

John

Originally Posted by rar110

It looks like a wax oil so similar to 506.

It really isn't. Waxoil is what it says, a mineral oil based product with the accompanying smell, Dinitrol is quite different from that, and in my opinion very superior. Here in Europe both waxoil and Dinitrol have their fans, but if you make an effort to do a little search on defender2.net, you will notice that Dinitrol generally comes up tops. And of course, a proper Dinitrol treatment includes application to each and every last corner of the inside of the chassis rails, not just the outside visible parts...
It can be done with cans or a compressor at home, but frankly, ideally you find a real good professional who has all the necessary equipment and who follows the Dinitrol guidelines by the book, and does not take any shortcuts. They are sometimes like a needle in a haystack, but thread 2 and 3 below will show you that they do still exist.
Here are a few defender2.net threads links which explain it all:
DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Corrosion Prevention Guide!
DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Defender Hunter Edition
DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - DINITROL for BELGIANS recommendation

Originally Posted by ericvv

... Waxoil is what it says, a mineral oil based product ...

So is dinitrol!

I recommend you try lanotec. Unlike Waxoyl and Dinitrol which are petrochemical/crude oil based, Lanotec products use lanolin (sheep/wool oil) as a base.