Thread: Maxi Drives

Originally Posted by MLD

I did a sals conversion to a Puma 130 fitted with the maxi rear locker, axles and flanges. I stole the sals off my 110 which was a bolt in exercise. I wouldn't have gone to the expense if i didn't think it was worth it.

Just curious - I thought the 110 Salisbury diff was not rated for a 130, something about the size and diameter of the axle tubes. The 130 Salisbury is unique to 130's and quite hard to get hold of.

I have a Maxidrive on my Sals diff. Love it.

For Rover Diffs (e.g. my front, which I'll do one day) I reckon the e-diff is the way to go.

Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

Just curious - I thought the 110 Salisbury diff was not rated for a 130, something about the size and diameter of the axle tubes. The 130 Salisbury is unique to 130's and quite hard to get hold of.

The 130 and HD 110 Sals uses thicker wall tubes than the standard 110 Sals.

The TJM Pro Locker is based on the old Jack McNamara locker and is arguably a better design than the ARB, and I think Eaton have an E-Locker too.

The downside of the Maxi one is fitting (cutting the axle tube and welding the actuator block) and supposedly it can be a little slower to engage.

The other alternative is a Detroit Locker.
Cheap and easy to fit and no air compressor, air or vacuum lines or wiring to run as with the Malay activated lockers.

If you need to buy the axle then I would build a 35 spline sals w-ARB or McNamara locker if you can afford it.

It will be 1-2k more than a sals MD locker but apart from changing the oil you will never need to worry about it again.

FWIW I have one sals with an MD Locker (fitted myself) and one with an ARB locker and 24 spl MD/HTE axles. I can't say I have a preference between the 2. The MD is significantly slower to disengage at times but that has never been a problem.

Following on from Rick's response to the 130 tube thickness. I have a regular 110 sals not the HD. Of the 3 or 4 examples i have seen (photos only) of a sals falling apart each were where the tube fits to the diff housing. There are various causes for a failure i.e., the diff housing bearing the unsprung weight of the wheels when stranded or repetitive flexing forces of corrugations or being over laden. To my lay logic the thickness of the tubing would not have likely prevented that type of failure from those causes.

There is an Eaton E-Locker for the sals, same for the P38 and rover diff centres. I went with the e-locker for the front. I had trouble with the first centre but the replacement has been trouble free. A click of a button on, click of a button off. No air lines, no compressors.

If your maxi is sticking when engaging and disengaging it could be the spring tension. Too much tension the vacuum won't overpower the ball in the detent in the actuator. Same when disengaging. It's something else to consider if you are experiencing slow response from your maxi. Personally I have no delay disengaging. It usually disengages within half rotation of the wheel. The difference with the maxi (light on when engaged) and ARB, TJM, Ashcroft etc is the light is independent to the engagement or disengagement. You might be experiencing the same minor delay with the air locker but you wouldn't know it. Rider to that is the front locker when the wheels are turned left or right. Most front lockers will not disengage freely in that situation because of the variable tension (on the axle) from each wheel at the diff centre. i'm referring to the situation as you move to the extremes of steering lock not necessarily just off centre.

MLD

Originally Posted by MLD

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If your maxi is sticking when engaging and disengaging it could be the spring tension. Too much tension the vacuum won't overpower the ball in the detent in the actuator. Same when disengaging. It's something else to consider if you are experiencing slow response from your maxi. Personally I have no delay disengaging. It usually disengages within half rotation of the wheel. The difference with the maxi (light on when engaged) and ARB, TJM, Ashcroft etc is the light is independent to the engagement or disengagement. You might be experiencing the same minor delay with the air locker but you wouldn't know it. Rider to that is the front locker when the wheels are turned left or right. Most front lockers will not disengage freely in that situation because of the variable tension (on the axle) from each wheel at the diff centre. i'm referring to the situation as you move to the extremes of steering lock not necessarily just off centre.

MLD

Anyone who uses an MD locker for serious offroading knows that the light goes off instantly, however in many cases (especially when cornering or windup) that there will be a 2nd hiss later when it disengages fully. (I use 15psi compressed air to actuate my MD locker as I have no vacuum system - so no shortage of pressure to overcome detent spring tension).

Because ARBs need air pressure to keep them locked, and disengage instantly when that pressure is lost, it is one of the (few) advantages an ARB has over an MD.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Anyone who uses an MD locker for serious offroading knows that the light goes off instantly, however in many cases (especially when cornering or windup) that there will be a 2nd hiss later when it disengages fully. (I use 15psi compressed air to actuate my MD locker as I have no vacuum system - so no shortage of pressure to overcome detent spring tension).

Because ARBs need air pressure to keep them locked, and disengage instantly when that pressure is lost, it is one of the (few) advantages an ARB has over an MD.

I was always under the impression that the light only goes off when the locker disengages and only comes on when engaged

Originally Posted by weeds

I was always under the impression that the light only goes off when the locker disengages and only comes on when engaged

The bolded bit is more or less correct, the light is on when the locker is **fully** engaged. The light however goes off as soon as the locker starts to disengage.