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Thread: 2014 Defender 110 - Tyre Pressures

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by BilboBoggles View Post
    I believe the reason for the lower front pressure on a defender is to induce understeer and avoid over-steer, I would guess it's an important handling characteristic on a defender in an emergency situation. I'd guess that a defender is more susceptible to flipping on it's side with oversteer. So you may want to avoid keeping them at exactly the same pressure front to back.

    The effect of the pressure also varies across tyre brands.

    interesting point. makes me think about the way i did things (40 all round on road and 20 in the hills).

  2. #22
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    AndyG is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Yes, pondering Bilbos point, be interesting to see if my MY15 110 with DSC has different tyre pressures, but I doubt it.
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

    Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are

  3. #23
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    If you use the 4 psi rule, you can get the pressures that are appropriate for the load you are carrying and the speed at which you are driving.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  4. #24
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    I run 45psi all round on the road in my 110 Puma with 235/85r16 Goodyear Wrangler MTR's.
    That's to compensate for front bar, winch, front and rear heavy gauge diff guards and heavy duty bash plate, and timber rear draw system.
    All the extra weight of accessories needs to be taken in mind when talking tyre pressures.
    I'm still "playing" with tyre pressures that suit me best in differing off-road conditions.

    I have found the best tyre pressure gauge so far to be the ARB E-Z Tyre Deflator.
    Its accuracy is spot in, and can obviously be used as a tyre gauge and deflator in one unit (as it states on the packet!)

    Cheers,

  5. #25
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    So much depends on tyre size, type and construction, let alone weight/load and distribution.......

    Case in point, I used to run 33psi on road (F&R) with 255/85 BFG KM Mt's.
    Running Maxxis 762 Big Horns in the same size I need 38psi F&R with the same loads.

    Purely gravel, 26psi all round, all on a 130 with a decent work load in the back seat and tray.

    As for the speculation re under/oversteer and tyre pressures, I highly doubt it.
    Deefers tend towards understeer when pushed anyway, but roll resistance, spring rates and CofG vary wildly from vehicle to vehicle depending on setup and will influence balance far more.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by BilboBoggles View Post
    I believe the reason for the lower front pressure on a defender is to induce understeer and avoid over-steer, I would guess it's an important handling characteristic on a defender in an emergency situation. I'd guess that a defender is more susceptible to flipping on it's side with oversteer. So you may want to avoid keeping them at exactly the same pressure front to back.

    The effect of the pressure also varies across tyre brands.
    My X-Tech defender has been through the dynamic test driven by me,I ran higher front pressure lower rear and it past the test,almost all the other vehicles were the opposite and all of them rolled to the point the drivers bailed and straightened up,all the vehicles except the Ambulances were unloaded. Pat

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by AussieAub View Post
    I run 45psi all round on the road in my 110 Puma with 235/85r16 Goodyear Wrangler MTR's.
    That's to compensate for front bar, winch, front and rear heavy gauge diff guards and heavy duty bash plate, and timber rear draw system.
    All the extra weight of accessories needs to be taken in mind when talking tyre pressures.
    I'm still "playing" with tyre pressures that suit me best in differing off-road conditions.

    I have found the best tyre pressure gauge so far to be the ARB E-Z Tyre Deflator.
    Its accuracy is spot in, and can obviously be used as a tyre gauge and deflator in one unit (as it states on the packet!)

    Cheers,
    You will have no grip and the tyres will howl running those pressures,the MTR is a rubbish tyre but try lower pressures,around 36 and below. Pat

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    You will have no grip and the tyres will howl running those pressures,the MTR is a rubbish tyre but try lower pressures,around 36 and below. Pat
    Actually having them on my vehicle, and running as I've stated, I beg to differ.

    I used to run oversized 235/85r16 Hankook RT/03's on my old V8 D2 at 55 PSI all round (65-70 PSI recommended by Hankook development team after a quick phone call). I got nearly 80,000km out of those before considering replacing, and those weren't noisy either....despite people telling me they would never last and the noise would be unbearable.

    There's certainly no "howling" from the current MTR tyres at any speed I've done so far. It's very smooth and quiet.
    And 36 and below is a shockingly low pressure to be running at with my set up, or any "mud designated" tyre at that.....I'll leave as is thanks.

    Cheers,

  9. #29
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    How many K's have your MTR's done?,mine lasted 36,000k's running the recommended pressure.Don't know about the 70 psi on your D2,have fun with that on a corrigated track. Pat

  10. #30
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    36psi isn't shockingly low, try 26psi on a dirt road.
    Much greater traction, much less tread chipping and wear compared to highway pressures, particularly with an MT tyre.
    Our tyres have huge
    volumes, compare them to a road car tyre that only ever sees around 32-36psi in a vehicle that weighs close to 2000kg and compare volumes.
    A 4wd tyre is a much bigger air spring.

    Most tyres don't see anywhere near their maximum load and so don't need anything like their maximum pressure, ie. the pressure on the tyre sidewall.

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