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Thread: Drive flange bolt torque setting.

  1. #11
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    Jan 2011
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    Sealant STC50552 : Loctite 243

  2. #12
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    I used Permatex "Ultra Blue" gasket maker & Permatex "Thread Locker Blue"(medium strength), both very good products.

  3. #13
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    Yep any good medium strength thread locker will do, Loctite 243 was the first that sprang to mind. I have also used Permatex "Thread Locker Blue", and agree that it's a quality product.

  4. #14
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    Paper gaskets with a light spray of hylomar and very clean bolts have worked for me and yes I do run oil filled hubs one compartment right through.

  5. #15
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    Gasket with sealant or sealastic of choice to seal it After you clean out the threads and the sealing faces. Inspect all bolts for stepping and stretching and chattering marks, replace if required or unsure

    loctite 242/243 on the bolts.

    Tighten to 20nm in a star pattern to seat everything, secure the criclip and check for some lateral free play of the axle in the drive flange.

    Tighten to 65nm in a star pattern and then recheck.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drover View Post
    3 wheels done, 1 to go !

    Still not sure how I did it, but I somehow managed to snap one of bolts off while undoing it it ?

    Anyway took several hour to get it out, but all good now.

    Just the near side front to do in the morning.

    Thanks to all for the info.
    I did my rear brake discs last week, the second last bolt snapped flush with the hub, It would just not budge, put me back 3 hours getting it out and I am not too happy with the outcome so may replace the hub, I think I damaged the threads in the hub, new screw is locked in and holding but it got to the 65nm a bit too easy I think.

    How did you remove yours?

    Cheers
    Pat.

  7. #17
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by patclan View Post
    I did my rear brake discs last week, the second last bolt snapped flush with the hub, It would just not budge, put me back 3 hours getting it out and I am not too happy with the outcome so may replace the hub, I think I damaged the threads in the hub, new screw is locked in and holding but it got to the 65nm a bit too easy I think.

    How did you remove yours?

    Cheers
    Pat.
    Drill, tap and helicoil it, Pat.

    Or drill and tap for the next bolt size.

  8. #18
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    Aug 2012
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    +1 for helicoil
    I've got the m10 x 1.5mm kit here if you need it.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  9. #19
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    British Off Road are doing a new style of drive flange which has additional bolts. Obviously the hub needs to be modified to match.

    I have never had any issues with my flange bolts coming undone....I use Permatex blue silicone to seal the surface of the flange and Locktite on the bolts


    Apologies if this is old news
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    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  10. #20
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    Apr 2009
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    Gold Coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by jboot51 View Post
    +1 for helicoil
    I've got the m10 x 1.5mm kit here if you need it.

    Thanks for the offer, appreciate it, I just ordered one, watched a few u tube vids and decided that would be great on the shelf along side my nutsert tool I have used once.

    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Drill, tap and helicoil it, Pat.

    Or drill and tap for the next bolt size.
    I had drilled it out and tapped it but only back to m10 which is probably my problem helicoil seems the way now so will fix when my new tool comes..

    Thanks for the help gents and apologies for the thread hijack..

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