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Thread: Drive flange bolt torque setting.

  1. 25th August 2014, 06:01 PM #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by patclan View Post
    I did my rear brake discs last week, the second last bolt snapped flush with the hub, It would just not budge, put me back 3 hours getting it out and I am not too happy with the outcome so may replace the hub, I think I damaged the threads in the hub, new screw is locked in and holding but it got to the 65nm a bit too easy I think.

    How did you remove yours?

    Cheers
    Pat.
    I managed to get a drill pretty much dead centre. Tried an "easy-out" no luck.
    So I increased drill size up to 6.5mm (without exposing any thread) then with 3mm bur, cut out one side of the now very thin bolt ( from inside) until thread was just exposed and with a little persuasion collapsed it in on its self and removed with pointy nosed pliers.

    Only took 3 hours ish......
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  2. 16th May 2021, 06:23 PM #22
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    Bringing this one back to life.

    As part of a diff centre replacement job on a puma without any prior diff / drive flange work done to it.
    I noticed it was interesting that torque setting is so low... but the bloody drive flange bolts are loctited in.

    In the process (long story, broken out in the field), ended up snapping 2 bolts in the hub.

    Thinking I'll try drill out with a LH bit, if that fails, go bigger until something gives.
    Otherwise open to suggestions
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
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  3. 17th May 2021, 08:30 AM #23
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    My 130 had a broken bolt when the diff lock was done, added an hours labour to the job. That was a factory bolt that snapped under normal use conditions, with the Disco style axles that have integrated drive members.

    Regards,
    Tote
    Go home, your igloo is on fire....
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  4. 17th May 2021, 06:18 PM #24
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    Center popped a mark, took to it with a 3/16 pilot bit, then up to 7mm in a drill press. Have missed the threads, but still no movement. LH drill bit didn't work, loctite is being very tenacious.
    Going to get a proper ezy-out tomorrow, and see how it goes. If not, new hub time.
    Could get it milled dead-nutz and helicoil'd at a machine shop, but for that money, new is a no brainer.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
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  5. 17th May 2021, 06:56 PM #25
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    A tiny tip with oxy, get the bolt cherry red and then try.
    That kills the Loctite
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  6. 17th May 2021, 07:18 PM #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    A tiny tip with oxy, get the bolt cherry red and then try.
    That kills the Loctite

    I thought that as well Rick but have never tried the heat on a Loctited thread, only read about it. Lucky or wot? I'm surprised it needs to be "Cherry Red" but if that is what it takes, so be it, as the buggers have to come out.
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  7. 17th May 2021, 07:26 PM #27
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    Just really hot Des, dull cherry so you know
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  8. 17th May 2021, 07:29 PM #28
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    I was always lucky using socket head cap screws as flywheel bolts on race engine back in the day (before ARP) but the prescribed removal process was a dull cherry, centre pop with a punch and then it should come undone with an allen key
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  9. 19th May 2021, 08:23 AM #29
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    Have you had a chance to attack it yet, Mitch?
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  10. 19th May 2021, 06:14 PM #30
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    Short version is, yeah, threw a heap of consumables and some pretty specialised tooling at it, but to no avail.

    I have got a new replacement on order, will see how badly I can **** the old one from here on in- we'll call it a learning experience / exercise in patience.

    The Sutton Easy-out just mangled itself (didn't snap, thankfully). This was after a good bit of heat from the MAPP torch.

    Attempted to TIG build-up some material to get a bolt or something welded on, but had a rough time with all the other contaminants in there, and lunched a few tungstens in the process. Plus some stray arcs (trying to weld down inside that 10mm bore).

    Gave it hell with a 1/4" cylindrical die grinder bit to try get a few cuts on it to weaken it, but between the loctite and the strong steel, the thread won't collapse. A M10x1.5 tap also wasn't toughing it to dislodge the remains of the threads in there...

    This is all while the hub is off the car. You'd be daft to do it on-vehicle.

    I'll whack a M10x1.5 helicoil kit thru it more likely, as this is the only way I'll get any semblance of a proper thread in there.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
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